A Vertical of Buty Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnays

For more than 25 years I wrote extensively about the wines of the Pacific Northwest in newspaper and magazine columns, books, blogs and on broadcast media. During this time I naturally developed a Northwest palate, which didn't mean uncritical acceptance of any and all wines from the region. What it did signify was a fine-tuned awareness of the different AVAs, strengths and characteristics to be found here.

More recently my focus has been exclusively on covering the wines of Oregon. Other than the occasional Washington wine pulled from my cellar, I have not kept pace with the state's unbridled growth. With the debut of paulgwine.com I am able once again to cover the entire Pacific Northwest. As I dive back into tastings of Washington wines, I find that I have a new perspective. It's much like visiting a favorite city after you've been away a long while. You want to see the old familiar places, and when you do, you can't help but notice how they've changed.

Buty and Mark Ryan are wineries whose wines I've known and admired since their first few vintages. Though Buty is no longer in business, this past week I sat down with founding winemaker Caleb Foster to explore a lineup of his Buty Chardonnays as well as three new wines from his current project – Gunpowder Creek.

Back in 2006 I wrote a column about Buty, as the winery had just moved into a cozy space at the Walla Walla airport. I noted that following some years working with Rick Small at Woodward Canyon, Caleb and then-partner Nina Buty were particularly excited about the potential of Washington chardonnay, and eager to explore a new approach. “I wanted to get out from underneath Rick Small’s shadow” Caleb explained at the time, “and making wines without oak was a way to do it.” So Buty began to explore ways to maximize flavors and textures without using new oak barrels, keeping alcohol levels in check and striving for balance, elegance and extract.

Following a divorce Caleb left Buty in 2012 and moved to the Tri-Cities. There he took on a variety of consulting gigs and made wines for John Bookwalter. The recent closing of Buty gave him an opportunity to purchase a generous selection of his now well-cellared Chardonnays. Together we tasted the 2001, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages, all but the first using grapes from the Conner Lee vineyard.

"Who looks for 20-year-old Chardonnay?" he asked me, then answered his own question. "It still feels to me that if a wine ages it's a sign of quality. So the excitement factor here is did they [the wines] make it? Did they last? For all that you can know about a wine when it's young, you can't prove that it's ageable until it is."

Every wine we tasted had something special to offer, and none were over the hill dead and gone. The 2001 and 2005 were clearly showing their maturity, moving into fully oxidized sherry-like flavors, yet still quite delicious (thoughts of calamari sprung to mind). The 2004 was the most impressive – aromatic with following flavors of grilled lemon, apple and white peach. A light hint of honey elevated a long, lovely finish. What impressed me most about the more recent vintages was their freshness. They looked and tasted no more than three or four years old.

Tasting so many vintages of Chardonnays I'd reviewed and praised when they were first released also showed me how my palate has shifted toward Oregon. The Willamette Valley is awash in Chardonnay, and taken as a group they are closer to great Burgundy than any I've had from Washington. The Buty Chardonnays retained their lively freshness and balanced structure, but left me wondering if they (or I) had somehow missed the mid-point in their evolution from new to old. Or is there a mid-point? They seemed to hold their lively primary flavors a long time, then go directly to fully mature.

Also this past week I tasted three new red wines from Mark Ryan. From the beginning these were big blockbuster wines unafraid to punch up the alcohol in pursuit of ripeness. I was pleased to find that some of this state's best Red Mountain vineyards are still providing grapes for Mark Ryan. Here there was no comparison to be made with Oregon, which does not pin its reputation on Cabernet blends. Washington does and definitely should. Some quick notes:

The Mark Ryan 2019 Water Witch Red is sourced entirely from a specific block on Red Mountain. The blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 3% each Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. The familiar stamp of Red Mountain terroir is clearly stated –firm tannins, tight (small berry) fruit, a touch of mineral and a firm grip through the finish.

672 cases; 14.9%; $70

The Mark Ryan 2019 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from three iconic vineyards – Ciel du Cheval, Red Willow and Klipsun – showcasing the strengths of all three. Klipsun brings the tannin, Ciel du Cheval the spice and Red Willow the more earthy, herbal side of the grapes. The addition of 8% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot pulls the wine further into the Bordeaux camp, broadening the mid-palate with a jumble of brambly red berries, while amping up the aromatics. Sharp, tight and detailed, this wine needs to be decanted! It should age well for another 20 years. 

216 cases; 14.8%; $80 

Best of the flight is the Mark Ryan 2019 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon, this week's Wine of the Week. (See above)

240 cases; 15%; $100

For another look at great Red Mountain juice check out the Andrew Rich 2018 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah. Sharp, tight wild berry fruit buttons up the wine's core at the moment. The tannins are ripe and smooth. Barrel aging has helped to soften them up while adding a toasty frame to the finish. There's more to unpack here, and with ample breathing it starts to show. The fruit gets more polish and concentration, and the overall power of the wine shines. By any standard this is a very fine Syrah.

53 cases; 14.2% abv; $48

Zoom Tasting/Interview with Ken Wright - April 7th - Sign up now!

On Thursday of this week I will be co-hosting a wine tasting/seminar with the legendary Ken Wright. The concept is to pair winemaker and critic in a shared tasting and conversation. These sorts of events are common enough in the wine world, but usually involve several winemakers and a moderator speaking in front of a live audience. Such events can be interesting, but in my experience they are often diffuse, too guarded and lacking in any real depth. By going one-on-one, live on Zoom, we'll cut out the blather and get into the nitty-gritty.

Ken and I go back a long way, and I've been a huge admirer of his wines over many decades. Registration is free and open to all. No wine purchase is required, but for those who would like to taste along with us the four featured wines may be purchased in advance directly from the winery. So why not gather a tasting group and do it together? Four wines can easily be shared among as many as eight (three-ounce pours) or ten (2.5 ounce pours) tasters, keeping costs quite reasonable.

I'll be tasting these four wines for the first time and offering my impressions on the spot. My questions will delve into Ken's experience, critical thinking, vast knowledge of specific vineyards, etc. The tasting is set for 5:30 pm Pacific Daylight time on April 7th. I hope you will join us.

Here is the link for registration: https://www.exploretock.com/.../ken-wright-paul-gregutt...