Riesling Rises Again! (and again and again and again...)

Many years ago the Avis car rental company featured "We Try Harder" as their marketing slogan. It lasted until 2012 – a half century later – replaced by nothing remotely as memorable. But it's a great slogan, and I'm recommending that the Riesling producers of the world adopt it. Because no grape tries harder, does more things well, or plugs away as relentlessly as Riesling.

Apart from Germany, where it has long produced wines generally acknowledged as its greatest expressions, Riesling is often grown as a "northern variety" in cooler climates thought to be unsuitable for much else. In warmer regions it is made as a quick-to-market fruit bomb, or a sweet wine for 'unsophisticated' palates. In the Pacific Northwest it was among the very first grapes planted in both Oregon and Washington because, as you probably suspected, it was 'too cold' way up here in the Arctic to grow anything else.

That of course was disproven long ago, but Riesling has continued to struggle for attention, let alone respect. For a number of years Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen hosted a Riesling Rendezvous that brought together producers, winemakers, media and trade for a two-day taste-a-thon. These events invariably included extended discussions about how better to market and promote Riesling, how to convince consumers that not all Rieslings were cheap and sweet, how to make it easier to differentiate dry from off-dry from sweet from late harvest from ice wines and on and on and on...

As far as I can tell, consumers are as confused as ever; Riesling has its staunch advocates and die-hard fans, and nothing has changed.

Except it has.

Over the past decade I've watched as more and more Oregon wineries produce Rieslings (mostly dry or off-dry) that are elegant, sophisticated, differentiated by site and exceptionally well-balanced. In Washington there have been less obvious changes, but Washington Rieslings have always been led by (and caught in the shadow of) the self-proclaimed biggest Riesling producer in the world – Chateau Ste. Michelle.

For me the evolution to dry styles has been the great Riesling success story of the past 10 – 15 years. When such wines were first introduced they were basically just acid-soaked sourballs that tasted like sucking on lemons. Or they were so dry that they had no flavor beyond cardboard. But that was then, and now the range and depth and sheer delight of the best dry Rieslings clearly elevate them to a status comparable to all the other great styles of which the grape is capable. Sparkling, dry, off-dry, sweet, ice wine, berry select... Riesling can do them all well.

A major challenge with such switch-hitter diversity is giving consumers an easy way to determine the relative sweetness of the bottle in hand. A general guideline is that low alcohol (under 12%) wines tend to be sweeter; high alcohol (over 13%) are most often dry. But a better tool is the Riesling scale defined by the International Riesling Foundation, which follows specific sugar-to-acid guidelines to determine relative dryness and sweetness. I wish more producers would include the scale on their back labels.

I make no claim that the list of excellent wines shown here is comprehensive. This website is not dedicated to quantity; my sole interest is quality. I don't plow through hundreds of wines so readers can scan the numbers to find the wines with the highest scores and the lowest prices. I would much rather taste fewer wines over a lengthy (several days) timeframe in order to evaluate them for completeness, style, verve, subtlety and ageability.

Here are current options for dry Rieslings (with one sweet exception) that stood out among my recent explorations. Some wineries that are top notch producers (Brooks is one) simply didn't make wine in 2020 and haven't yet released the 2021s and so are not included. We'll look for their '21s later this year. Some important producers such as Ste. Michelle did not answer my requests for submissions. Nonetheless many terrific wines were included in my tastings, from specialists such as Trisaetum and under-the-radar gems such as Pierce.

I've listed them in alphabetical order, and all are recommended. My personal favorites? Bryn Mawr 2021 Estate; Élevée Winegrowers 2020 Ridgecrest Vineyard; Hyland 2021 Old Vine Single Vineyard; Pierce 2020 Single Barrel Van Horn Vineyard; and Trisaetum 2020 Ribbon Ridge Estate and 2020 Estates Reserve. Other than Trisaetum, whose wines are well represented in this list, no one makes more and better Rieslings than Brooks. Look for their 2021s when they appear.

A to Z Wineworks 2021 Oregon Riesling

This widely-available, high value effort scores again with a sharp, peppery, zesty, lively 2021. It deftly balances tart citrus fruits with a dollop of sweet grape sugars. It's a versatile wine that persists through a long finish. Try this with a wide variety of noodle dishes, the spicier the better. Previously featured as a Value Wine of the Week.

32,300 cases; 12%; $16 (Oregon)

Amos Rome 2021 Estate Riesling

This cool climate wine hits all the marks. It's focused, detailed and juicy. Flavors of citrus and apple are supported with ample natural acidity, and it's backed with an impression of wet stone. It's firm, balanced and has the tartness to accompany a mix of shellfish and white fish. The finish lingers like a well-thrown changeup.

350 cases; 13.8%; $22 (Lake Chelan)

Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2021 Estate Riesling

I wish more wineries would print the dryness scale on the back label, as done here. It's not infallible, but gives consumers a good idea of the basic style of the wine. This is dry, a tick or two below medium dry on the scale. Just enough residual sugar to smooth over the penetrating acidity and add a hint of spun sugar. Big fruit is the focus, a lush mid-palate loaded with blood orange, gooseberry, apple and white peach. It's a juicy, refreshing wine that nails all the flavor points for a dry Oregon Riesling.

120 cases; 12.7% $30 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Dineen 2020 Riesling

The Dineen vineyard is a familiar name on many Washington wines, and a limited number of estate-made wines are also available. This is rich and ready to enjoy, with powerful flavors of citrus rind, stone fruits, almond butter and a hint of pie crust. It has a lovely smooth finish that coats the palate and lingers gracefully.

100 cases; 13.4%; $22 (Yakima Valley)

Élevée Winegrowers 2020 Ridgecrest Vineyard Riesling

Sourced from the oldest site on Ribbon Ridge this outstanding wine could be the poster child for Oregon Riesling. It's deep, dense and delicious, loaded with juicy citrus and tangy highlights of apricot and papaya. The acids are succulent and lively and easily offset any sweetness from residual sugar. This drinks like a very fine New World Spätlese.

100 cases; 11.5%; $33 (Ribbon Ridge)

Gärd 2019 Grand Klasse Estate Riesling

Sourced from the Lawrence vineyards in the Royal Slope AVA, this is a rich gold hue, suggesting an extended aging process prior to bottling. Dried apricot, grapefruit skin, hints of nutmeg and chalky saline notes contribute to a wine with impressive length and detail. Give this plenty of attention as it sails down through the palate as the best part of the wine happens in the finish.

55 cases; 13.6%; $32 (Columbia Valley)

Gärd 2019 Riesling Ice Wine

Although my focus is on dry Rieslings, this rare ice wine – as good as those found up in the Canadian Okanagan – is too good to miss. The grapes were picked frozen in mid-January and fermentation was stopped at 214 g/L (21%) residual sugar. It's quite rich with riper fruit than the Canadian ice wines, delivering a thick, palate-coating pleasure ride down through layers of peaches, cream, toasted marshmallow, lemon meringue, cotton candy and candied orange. In short, a gorgeously delicious wine that expands the potential of Royal Slope vineyards.

96 cases (375ml); 11.5%; $70 (Royal Slope)

Hanson 2021 Riesling

This pushes the limits of minimally-ripened dry Riesling, with an abv of just 10.5%. The advantages are many, as this may be enjoyed solo and as a mixer. Essentially it's like a sparkling Riesling without the sparkles, and quite refreshing. Flavors of clean mineral, lemon pith, grapefruit and wet stone are in the forefront, with good grip and a long finish. Estate grown with minimal intervention or additions, this expressive wine is a true pleasure.

85 cases; 10.5%; $20 (Willamette Valley)

Hyland 2021 Old Vine Single Vineyard Riesling

Quite dry yet retaining some touches of fruit sweetness, this exceptional old vine Riesling is a masterful mix of lemon, lime, grapefruit, green apple and lemongrass, buoyed by tart acids and softening up just enough to trail out gently through a long finish. The palate is juicy and refreshing, the acids perfectly balanced against the fruit, with appealing touches of underlying minerality. This belongs among the finest Rieslings produced in the entire Northwest.

475 cases; 13.5%; $28 (McMinnville)

Pacific Rim 2021 Dry Riesling

Pacific Rim makes a wide range of Rieslings in a variety of sweetness levels. The Dry Riesling featured here is richly fruity with a luscious blend of peach, apricot and papaya fruit. Though it is finished and labeled as dry the ripeness of the fruit provides a slight impression of sweetness. Flavors extend through a pleasing finish with a mix of orange blossoms, Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit and cascading tropical fruits.

6551 cases; 12.5%; $11 (Columbia Valley)

Pacific Rim 2017 Solstice Vineyard Old Vine Riesling

Sourced from 40-year-old vines, this puts the emphasis on texture and aromatics, with cascading details of petrol, citrus skin and wet paper. The fruit is not the star here; rather it's about the details that old vines can offer. Try this with cracked crab.

163 cases; 13.9%; $24 (Yakima Valley)

Paul O'Brien 2021 Bone Dry Riesling

Bone dry can be a nice way of saying sour as sucking on a lemon, but when it works well, as it does here, you have a succulent wine loaded with citrus flesh and rind. This brings a nice mix of lemon, grapefruit and tangerine, with refreshing acids and a touch of wet stone. Listed at just 11.5% abv, it's a wine you can enjoy with a wide variety of picnic foods, crab, lobster or noodle dishes.

138 cases; 11.5%; $26 (Umpqua Valley) 

Pierce 2021 Hedgerow Riesling

The blend includes 20% co-fermented Bartlett pears from 90-year-old trees. Let the record show the best fruit wines I've ever tasted were dry wines made from pears. The Riesling is sourced from the Van Horn vineyard in the Columbia Gorge, the sole site for winemaker Jess Pierce's unique Rieslings. Crown-capped and offered in refillable 500 ml bottles, this relatively low alcohol wine is dry, leesy and has the sort of lightly crunchy pear fruit flavors you sometimes find in Pinot Gris. It's a deft blend that can pair nicely with a range of soft white cheeses, salads and noodle dishes.

144 cases (500ml); 10.9%; $15 (Columbia Gorge)

Pierce 2020 Van Horn Vineyard Riesling

Jess Pierce has a full-time gig at Walter Scott, where she also makes a small number of Rieslings, some in crown-capped, refillable 500 ml bottles. This is her chosen Riesling vineyard, located in the Hood River valley on the Oregon side of the Gorge. For such a low alcohol wine it is neither sweet nor sour, finessing its way through the twin poles of low alcohol Rieslings. Lovely texture and a refreshing mix of mineral, citrus skin, white peach and a dash of vanilla make this a compelling wine. It gets better on the second and third days after being opened, so aerate!. Previously featured as Value Wine of the Week.

150 cases (500ml); 11.5%; $15 (Columbia Gorge)

Pierce 2020 Single Barrel Van Horn Vineyard Riesling

This plows new fields for Oregon Riesling. It was fermented with native yeast in single 350 liter Damy oak barrel. A full keg of saved lees from the previous vintage was added to the wine, which was aged another 16 months. It's a three ring circus of scents and flavors, mixing the floral aromatics of the wild yeasts with the textural richness of the mixed lees. I won't attempt to do a list of all the fruits and flowers, spices and herbs you may find here, but if you drink only one Riesling from this list, make it this one.

35 cases (750ml); 12.5%; $33 (Columbia Gorge)

Rocky Pond 2021 Clos CheValle Vineyard Riesling

Succulent is the word that springs to mind upon tasting this young wine. It's definitely for those who love high acid expressions, but at the same time it's loaded with a lush mix of citrus fruits, nicely ripened, complex and lingering across the palate. The tang of the fruit is underscored with a crunchy touch of minerality.

149 cases; 12.8%; $30 (Lake Chelan)

Sleight of Hand 2021 The Magician Evergreen Vineyard Riesling

Steely, stony and dry as an ancient lake, this single vineyard selection puts the focus on lemony flavors of wet rock. An oyster-friendly style, it's a fine summer white to drink nicely chilled.

750 cases; 13%; $22 (Ancient Lakes)

St. Innocent 2020 Temperance Hill Vineyard Riesling

Finished with just under one percent residual sugar, this still hits the palate as a dry wine, though with less acid punch than those fermented to the bitter end. Low alcohol and a dry finish makes this a very food-friendly wine, one which may be enjoyed chilled and sipped on a hot summer evening with any number of cold picnic foods. Flavors touch on citrus, green apple and pear, with a pleasing phenolic frame and a lingering impression of bacon fat (!).

146 cases; 10%; $32 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Trisaetum 2020 Coast Range Estate Dry Riesling

The fruit powers out of the glass, nicely textured, fresh and almost creamy. It bursts with flavors of apples and apple sauce with a hint of cinnamon. Dry though it is, there's nothing sour about the acids which bring a touch of mineral to the finish.

282 cases; 13.1%; $32 (Yamhill-Carlton District)

Trisaetum 2020 Wichmann Dundee Dry Riesling

This estate bottling accents stony minerality along with skin flavors of lemon and apple. It's a juicy wine that gets the saliva flowing. It's light enough to compare to a richer Muscadet, with a similar affinity for raw oysters.

280 cases; 13%; $32 (Dundee Hills)

Trisaetum 2020 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Riesling

Sourced from the vineyard adjacent to the winery, this brings interesting details of caraway, ginger and stone. Compact fruit flavors mix citrus, apple and orange candy, with good definition and length. The complexity at such a young age suggests tucking this away and wait for the best drinking, which should come from the mid-20's well into the 2030s.

453 cases; 13%; $32 (Ribbon Ridge)

Trisaetum 2020 Estates Reserve Dry Riesling

A blend of the best lots from the three estate vineyards, this is a fleshy, full-bodied wine with tart apple, pear and white peach fruit. There's a resonant note of brioche that penetrates and lingers through the finish. The detailed differentiation among Trisaetum's four dry Rieslings is most impressive. The winery also makes four comparable selections each vintage in an off-dry style.

137 cases; 13.1%; $42 (Willamette Valley)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only exceptional wines are shown, no negative reviews. Unlike print publications, which may face long delays between the time wines are tasted and reviews actually appear, my notes are posted before wines are sold out, so you can purchase them directly from the producer. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed on this website. Contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts.

Coming next week:  A close look at the four new Pinots from Brittan Vineyards, and a discussion of Robert Brittan's unique 'Heritage' cuvée comprised of five rare Pinot clones.

Heads Up:  I will do a focus on Syrah, GSM blends and other Rhone reds and blends later in the fall. I am also planning a detailed look at the wines from the McMinnville AVA. Please send current and upcoming wines from either category no later than the end of September (but please wait until the current heat wave has subsided). Shipping information is published on this website or text me at paulgwine@me.com. I am always open to suggestions for future topics, so send me your thoughts at any convenient time.

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt