Should Wine Reviews Comment on the Packaging?

I recently got into a somewhat heated exchange with a winemaker who was incensed over a comment I'd posted on social media. I was troubled (OK I was ranting) about the plastic "wax" slathered over the bottle neck which made pulling the cork quite a pain in the a$$. Although I did my best to avoid any specific mention of the actual wine, this individual was outraged and quite certain that the close-up of the bottle neck I'd shown was easily identifiable and would somehow impact the winery's reputation.

It's ironic that the actual review I had already written about the wine was entirely positive and included a very good score, with no mention at all of the packaging. Nonetheless the winemaker insisted that it not be published because I couldn't possibly be objective about the wine if I hated the package. So I honored the request and never submitted the review for publication.

There's a lot to unpack here. But first and foremost I want to be clear that I have always tried to be a fair and objective critic, and that means moderating honest opinion with what I hope is useful feedback. On rare occasions in a printed review I have discussed the packaging as well as the wine. Packaging includes everything that isn't wine – bottle, seal, label etc. Often my comments were supportive:  when screwcaps began to appear on better quality wines, I was one of the first to sing their praises. Same with box wines.

I've sometimes commented on wine labels also, with a mix of praise and criticism. Because along with what's in the bottle (or box or can) I firmly believe that the package has a major impact on sales. Consumers buy the package as often as not. How does that package attract or repel them? How much useful information does it convey? And in the case of a decision to cover the cork in plastic, how much trouble does it cause when opening the wine?

There are many closure options for wineries that are still bottling in glass. Real cork, composite cork, bamboo cork, plastic cork, screwcap, crown cap, glass cap and on and on. Further amendments, such as a wax seal, neck foil and plastic are not necessary for the preservation of the contents but may sometimes add to the overall package design.

Wine labels are another essential part of the package. Does the overall design work have visual appeal? Does it convey just the legally mandated information or add further detail? Is there a unique story being told or just the usual stuff about passion and using the best grapes possible?

I've seen labels printed almost entirely in black, rendering them unreadable. I've seen cartoonish labels on expensive wines that make them look cheap. I've seen labels so overloaded with technical gobbledygook that only a chemist could unravel them. I've seen wines with no paper labels at all, just (sometimes) indecipherable imprinted glass. And on the other hand are labels that not only convey exactly what's in the bottle but also bring a personal, artistic touch to the overall design. The hand-drawn, letter-printed labels of Big Table Farm are a splendid example of such exceptional work.

Granted that not every winery has a talented artist at the helm, and simply spending money on a design firm is no guarantee of success. But designing a simple, readable and informative label – better yet finding a design that reaches across an entire portfolio, such as Charles Smith's use of black and white along with catchy wine names – should not be out of reach for most.

Those of us who open hundreds if not thousands of wine bottles every year may be more sensitive to closures than the average consumer. But honestly, if you plan to sell your wine in restaurants, wouldn't it make sense to put it in a package that doesn't require a professional wrestler to jack open?

The late Eric Dunham made outstanding wines with original artwork he'd painted himself and at times cloaked them in faux wax. Eric was both a cherished friend and someone whose wines I reviewed professionally. Once or twice I referenced the goop on the bottle unfavorably. Rather than take offense, Eric invited me to dinner at the winery and made a special presentation of a one-of-a-kind bottle of his best wine that he'd slathered in a vast amount of red plastic. We both had a good laugh. That bottle is one of my personal treasures and is proudly displayed in my wine cellar.

I'll tackle the even more exasperating topic of bad wine label copy in a later post. Suffice it to say that if you waste that precious and limited space on a meandering tale of your passion you are in no way differentiating yourself from tens of thousands of others. There are a whole lot of passionate people making wine, and good on 'em. But that does not make for good copy.

So... winemakers, consumers, designers, retailers, somms and fellow scribes... what do you think? How important is packaging? How does the look of a wine label impact buying decisions? And should wine reviews stick to what's in the bottle and leave out the rest?

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Wine Tasting/Interview with Ken Wright - April 7th

Beginning next month I will be co-hosting occasional wine tasting/seminars with outstanding winemakers. The concept is to pair winemaker and critic in a shared tasting and conversation. These sorts of events are common enough in the wine world, but usually involve several winemakers and a moderator speaking in front of a live audience. Such events can be interesting, but in my experience they are often diffuse, too guarded and lacking in any real depth. By going one-on-one, live on Zoom, we'll cut out the blather and get into the nitty-gritty. Since I am now completely independent and this site is ad-free there is no threat of mutual-assured-destruction ("I'll pull my advertising if you say anything bad!" – "Oh, yeah, I'll knock five points off your score if you do!") at work here.

I am thrilled that Ken Wright has agreed to join me for the first of these tastings. Ken and I go back a long way, and I've been a huge admirer of his wines over many decades. Registration is free and open to all. No wine purchase is required, but for those who would like to taste along with us the four featured wines may be purchased in advance directly from the winery. So why not gather a tasting group and do it together? Four wines can easily be shared among as many as eight (three-ounce pours) or ten (2.5 ounce pours) tasters, keeping costs quite reasonable.

I'll be tasting these four wines for the first time and offering my impressions on the spot. My questions will delve into Ken's experience, critical thinking, vast knowledge of specific vineyards, etc. The tasting is set for 5:30 pm Pacific Daylight time on April 7th. I hope you will join us.

Here is the link for registration: https://www.exploretock.com/.../ken-wright-paul-gregutt...

This Week's Wines

All wines submitted to me are tasted, and all wines reviewed are highly recommended. Best of the week, Value of the week and Cellar wine of the week are listed above. Here are some other recent highlights – maybe the best lineup overall I've posted to date. The prices listed are full suggested retail so lower offers may be found.

Alexana 2019 Block 8 – Clone 777 Pinot Noir

Alexana vets its clonal selections carefully, and the single clone Pinot Noirs are legitimate and complete expressions of the grape. This is focused and clean, with a punchy mix of blood orange, Bing cherry and milk chocolate. The elegant details compile on through the finish, with the immaculate winemaking of Bryan Weil on full display. This is not a big, blow you away Pinot, but it's completely in sync with the vintage, the clone and the predominant winery style.

100 cases; 13.3% abv; $125

Andrew Rich 2017 Glacial GSM

This is 54% Syrah, 31% Mourvèdre and 15% Grenache sourced from Columbia Valley vineyards. A skillful, Syrah-heavy blend, the dominant flavors are black fruits, charred meat, espresso and toasted walnuts. The overall balance is spot on, the tannins are ripe and polished, and the wine has muscle, grip and persistence. It's a superb effort, and for the quality, a very fine value.

399 cases; 14.2% abv; $42

Andrew Rich 2018 Marine Sedimentary Pinot Noir

There’s a rich cloak of baking spices around pretty strawberry and cherry fruit flavors. The name tips you off that there may be some accent notes of seashells, which come up in the back of the palate as the wine rolls into a drying finish. The vineyard sources are unknown, but the flavors conjure up thoughts of Ribbon Ridge. Drink 2023 and into the 2030s.

555 cases; 13.7% abv; $48

Day 2021 Vin de Days l'Orange

Orange wines can go south in a heartbeat, but here the expressive aromatics are on display and the flavors carry on with exceptional detail and finesse. In short this is a masterful effort, with orange blossom scents, rosewater and orange peel highlights, concentrated lemon, pineapple, apple and orange fruits, marzipan and a vein of clove threading through the finish. This is a magical wine that should not be missed.

1231 cases; 12% abv; $25

Soléna 2020 Domaine Danielle Laurent Chardonnay

This is a stick-to-your-palate wine, with top notes of butterscotch, lemon curd and cut pineapple. The fruit gathers mid-palate focus and holds firm into a lip-smacking finish. Nectarine, Meyer lemon, pineapple and more are in the mix, with the juicy acidity to pair effortlessly with a variety of lemony entrées.

150 cases; 13.7% abv; $58

Soléna 2020 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir

This is the lynchpin estate vineyard, with some vines a half century old. The wine is fragrant and refined, mixing marionberries, huckleberries and blueberries in a lush mid-palate. Aging nine months in 38% new oak frames it with light flavors of toasted coconut. The supporting acids add a hint of citrus. These excellent 2020s from Soléna show that not all the red wines from that smoky harvest were affected by the fires. Drink now and over the next decade.

300 cases; 14.4% abv; $58

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir

Planted a half century ago, this exceptional site warrants special treatment. Here the scents and flavors of barrel toast and ripe raspberries compete aromatically, ultimately finding a fine compromise with room for both in the mouth. This is immediately appealing yet poised for medium term ageability. The flavors linger on the palate and resolve with a gentle pat of buttery caramel. Roughly 40% of the barrels were new; perhaps a little less new wood would allow for more old vine complexity.

1000 cases; 13.9% abv; $65