Two Great Northwest Wineries Blazing New Winemaking Trails

As this website has evolved over the past year I've zeroed in on curating exceptional wines rather than broadcasting endless reviews of whatever shows up on my porch. I want the time you spend here to be valuable. Finding really good wines out of the vast numbers of OK wines is a time-consuming activity. Unless you are in the wine business in some way it's almost impossible. I enjoy tasting and writing about wine and I'm happy to devote almost full-time hours to the task. In these weekly posts you find the distillation of all the tastings and research I've done – in other words, just the good stuff.

If you don't subscribe yet to my Paul Gregutt Substack posts please do. There is no charge and you will get previews, new and different material, and scores on all featured wines.

This week's Deep Dive is focused on two wineries that in very different ways are blazing new winemaking trails. Rocky Pond has single-handedly created and verified an entirely new AVA – Rocky Reach – here in Washington state. These are among the very finest wines I've tasted in the past year.

Authentique is the project of Nicholas Keeler, located on a lush and beautiful estate near the town of Amity, Oregon. Keeler works his magic via an impressive knowledge of varied fermentation vehicles and blending practices, which he explains in the essay below.

Rocky Pond

When I discovered this new winery and AVA last spring I was instantly transported by the feeling that here was indeed a very special place to grow grapes.

As I wrote on this website last June:  More than a few winemakers have told me over the years that the best places to grow grapes in Washington are yet to be discovered. That's not completely true – some great places have already been found. But with climate change impacting virtually all West Coast vintners, the qualities that define "best places" are evolving. And the winemaking is evolving with them. Wines are getting more subtle, more aromatic, less obviously fruity and more complex. These early releases from Rocky Pond express all of those characteristics.

Rocky Pond President John Ware spent two decades at Quilceda Creek before joining Rocky Pond. I was curious to find out what had attracted him to this new, unproven winery and vineyard. His answer:

"The Rocky Reach AVA has a geological story dating back 100,000,000-70,000,00 years when islands in the Pacific were thrust under Washington and thrust up into this 32,333 acres called Rocky Reach. Then 18,500-16,000 years ago, two glaciers carved out the Columbia River, depositing sandy soils and the prolific cobblestones. We do not have any basalt like most of Washington, and in fact, are higher in silica and quartz minerals. So what does that all mean for wine drinkers? We have a distinct minerality that is fused with ripe fruit that expresses itself in the wines. Double D and Rocky Reach Estate are warm sites. The stony surfaces and cobblestones quickly warm and heat the vines and promote faster and more complete ripening. The coarser soils are more efficient in transmitting water [meaning they hold less] which encourages the vines to establish deeper roots than vines planted in silty soils."

PG:  Of course the proof is in the pudding and my initial enthusiasm has been amplified and confirmed by subsequent tastings and a visit to the winery last summer. The newest releases are stunning wines from a more difficult vintage. Shane Collins, who made these new releases, now manages the estate vineyards in his current role as Director of Viticulture and Vineyard Relations. He's found that a lot of the vines, especially the older plantings going back to 2013, are very hard to get good vigor on. "Very sandy and cobblestone soils provide little water holding in the soil," he explains, "so we have learned a lot about proper balance for these vines. They will naturally hold less crop load than other locations that have previously had apples, pears, and cherries.

"What I thought we could accomplish for crop load and quality is certainly different than what I thought in 2017 when I came on board with Rocky Pond. We have changed our thinking on strategy for water management down to individual lines and sub-sections of the blocks by adding additional emitters and being able to turn the water on and off in very specific areas.

"I want to maximize the expression of the tannins and the tension of the wine while not having them express too lean or rigid. We focus on getting the plant to shut down as early as we can for any new growth on try to focus all the energy on fruit ripeness and phenolic development as the daylight becomes shorter later in the year, especially late September and October."

PG:  The winemaking reins have been handed over to Liz Keyser, who moved up from Napa a year ago. I asked her to comment on her experiences in a new wine region this first year.

LK:  "This growing season was a lesson in patience. The slow and cool start to the growing season set us on a path of being 1-2 weeks behind historic phenology data and meant most of our fruit was going to be harvested in a very tight window. There were many sleepless nights in early-October spent poring over weather reports and debating early picks, but ultimately I trusted that we could push hang time and the grapes would be able to bounce back from light rain, or even a frost event. We started harvesting red fruit on October 19th and were all in by November 9th (90+ tons in approx. 3-weeks). We have an incredible vineyard and cellar team who worked at a grueling pace to accomplish this harvest.

"A major strength of the Rocky Reach AVA made apparent to me this growing season is the ability to achieve even ripening across the spectrum of varieties grown at Double D and Rocky Reach Estate vineyards, even in a challenging vintage. I attribute the balanced and even ripening to the low elevation and sandy-rocky soils that radiate heat into the canopy. Being able to hold onto heat into the evening hours really helped to push ripening along. I am continually impressed by the wines produced from our vineyards in the Rocky Reach AVA. For young vines the fruit exudes so much character and sense of place.

"Overall, downsizing from the 150k+ case production [in Napa] has allowed me to reconnect with the entire winemaking process and it’s been a challenging, inspiring, and gratifying year. The first wines of the 2022 vintage will be released in Spring 2023, featuring the 2022 Stratastone Rosé and 2022 Double D Sauvignon Blanc. The 2022 vintage will be labeled with Rocky Reach AVA designation (where applicable) and Sustainable WA certification.”

As Liz notes these current releases still carry the broad Columbia Valley AVA designation rather than the newly-minted Rocky Reach AVA because TTB approval came just after these wines had already been bottled. "In subsequent vintages" President John Ware confirms, "you will see the Rocky Reach AVA designation from wines produced from the Double D and Rocky Reach vineyard sites, as well as the new 'Sustainable WA' certification."

Purchase Rocky Pond wines here

Rocky Pond 2021 Tumbled Granite White

This Viognier/Roussanne blend saw 45% new French oak prior to bottling. It's racy and focused, still rather tight with prickly citrus skin, cucumber and cactus flavors. The freshness is appealing and leads me to suggest that this be enjoyed over the next couple of years. One minor quibble – the front labels on the two Tumbled Granite wines are identical, and the dark glass makes it difficult to tell white from red. 150 cases; 14.1%; $60 (Columbia Valley)

Rocky Pond 2020 Double D Vineyard Malbec

This is pure Malbec and a textbook example of this done as a varietal wine. Blueberries galore in the nose, accented with pretty barrel toast (44% new for 22 months). Malbec initially plays out across the palate horizontally and then sets up with precision, lighter in mouthfeel than most Washington Merlots and less tannically potent than Cabernets. Nonetheless it's got length and strength and its own pleasures, a mix of berry and coffee, chicory and grain. 300 cases; 15%; $60 (Columbia Valley)

Rocky Pond 2020 Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

This is 77% Cabernet; also in the blend are Merlot (18% and Syrah (5%), all from the flagship estate vineyard. This is dark and supple, toasty and firm, with taut black fruits, polished but chewy tannins and a frame of new French oak. Hints of gravel and graphite penetrate the finish and amplify the astringency of the tannins. Clearly at the start of a long life, it's structured like many of Washington's finest Cabernets from Red Mountain and the Horse Heaven Hills. 256 cases; 14.8%; $75 (Columbia Valley)

Rocky Pond 2020 Tumbled Granite Red

This is 75% Cabernet, 20% Merlot and 5% Syrah, all from the flagship estate vineyard. Compare with the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon and the stats are almost identical, so this must be a reserve-level selection from all new barrels. With all that new oak it's loaded with baking spices, thus giving it immediate appeal despite its long term aging potential. The dark fruits are typical from the Double D vineyard, and line up taut and polished alongside sharp, polished and balancing tannins. This is a beautifully made wine which should be cellared for at least a few more years and could go into the mid-2030s. Very limited. 90 cases; 15%; $120 (Columbia Valley)

Rocky Pond 2020 Double D Vineyard Stratastone Red

This popular Rhône-style blend is 46% Grenache, 28% Syrah and 26% Mourvèdre (almost doubled from the previous vintage). Gorgeously scented with a plush mix of brambly red and purple berries, lavender and white chocolate, it's fresh, forward and fruit-driven; in other words absolutely irresistible. Those who purchased the previous vintage will be pleased to know the price is virtually unchanged. As this vineyard continues to grow and mature we can only expect more magnificent wines will follow. 436 cases; 14.8%; $46 (Columbia Valley)

Rocky Pond 2020 Double D Vineyard 11 Dams Red

One of a pair of outstanding entry-level blends from Rocky Pond, this is 54% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Malbec sourced from the estate vineyard. It's all Rocky Reach AVA but the winery is going with the more generic Columbia Valley designation. An unusual blend, this deftly amps up the power of the principal Merlot component while keeping the strength and detail of the other two grapes in focus. It's a fruit showcase loaded with black cherries and cassis, backed with the AVA's underlying minerality. The generous use of new French oak (50%) is kept in check while framing the wine perfectly. Given its youth this absolutely must be decanted for near term drinking, or cellared for another couple of years. Still drinking very well on the 4th day. 550 cases; 14.8%; $46 (Columbia Valley)

Authentique

The winery's Keeler estate vineyard (just outside of Amity) is a Demeter-certified biodynamic site on a southwest facing hillside. The shallow and diverse sedimentary soils were once part of an ancient ocean bed.

Winemaker Nicholas Keeler employs a fascinating array of fermentation vessels including rotary large format, upright oak; stainless steel tanks; Italian amphorae and concrete eggs, sometimes mixing multiple styles in a single bottling. He has represented Allary barrels in the U.S. and along the way acquired a great deal of knowledge of French forests, barrel production and the impact of specific barrel choices on finished wines.

"My aim is to make unique wines with layers of nuance and detail" he says. "Wines fermented in different vessels are barreled down separately. This gives me a wider range of color, texture and flavor for the alchemy at the blending table. For example in my Pinot Noir oak is used for texture and color; concrete ovals for an anaerobic environment, texture and longer time on the skins; stainless for precise temperature control, respect for the vineyard/fruit character and a brighter mouthfeel. My hope is to get more detail in the wines, and for the wines to be ageworthy and captivate interest as they evolve in cellar and glass.

"I also enjoy the gentle extraction texture and carbonic aspect of the rotary 500 and 600 liter barrels. In my experience the Italian amphorae lends a unique color, highlights mineral/ceramic elements and produces a round texture during fermentation and aging. Lately I’ve been fermenting a personal favorite 115 clone block from Keeler estate to get orange peel , cherry and white pepper characters in amphorae; then aging in our medium+ all fire toast Allary Diamant Fontainebleau. It's a wonderfully complex wine that’s normally blended in the Authentique Keeler estate designate Pinot Noir."

PG:  Authentique wines are released a year or two after most Oregon Pinots, which is very helpful given the somewhat reductive winemaking. As with all the wines I taste, these Authentique releases have been re-examined over several days.

Purchase all Authentique wines here

Authentique 2020 Bremen Town Riesling

Fermented in concrete egg and then aged in neutral oak, this shows the sort of experimentation happening with Riesling among its advocates in Oregon. It's aromatic and dry – in fact for some palates it will taste sour – like a squirt of fresh lemon juice. The time in concrete egg adds texture and a baseline minerality, extending the finish. This would be an ideal match for shellfish, crustaceans or poultry in a lemon sauce. 75 cases; 12%; $50 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Authentique 2019 Bois Joli Chardonnay

Sappy and seductive, this layers tart lemony acids under crisp apple, Asian pear, grapefruit and a thin seam of banana cream. The complexity and clever melding of disparate components is impressive. This should be decanted or aged another 2-5 years. Nicholas Keeler notes these are Dijon clones that were fermented spontaneously in 30% new extra tight Vosges oak barrels, then aged sur lie for 16 months. 75 cases; 13%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Authentique 2019 Fond Marin Chardonnay

This barrel selection includes grapes from Bois Joli and Keeler vineyards. At first it is sharp, almost severe, and drinks younger than its vintage. It's steely and tight, with close-wound, mineral-drenched flavors of lemon rind, lemongrass, apple skin and dried Italian herbs. If past is preview (I thought when first tasting it) this will respond well to aeration and further bottle age. Sure enough this opened up and drank far better on day three than on day one. 200 cases; 13%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Authentique 2019 The Corridor Pinot Noir

The Corridor bottling gets essentially the same care as the more expensive Pinots from Authentique. Spontaneous (wild yeast) fermentation of whole berries with a small percentage of whole clusters amps up the details and textures of this wine. Savory overtones complement the brambly berry fruit. The new oak is subtle and effective. Intended to be more approachable early than its companions, it's pleasingly full and nicely textured. Should drink well through the rest of the decade. 200 cases; 13%; $42 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Authentique 2019 Keeler Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

As noted above the regimen includes spontaneous fermentation in rotary oak puncheons, demi-muid, upright oak, amphorae and stainless tanks. This is followed by 16 months in 40% new oak with light bâtonnage. The payoff is a wine with varied textures, layered like sedimentary rock, and somewhat muted flavors of berries, mint, sage, soil and seashell. I strongly recommend decanting this wine in order to help the flavors unpack. Best drinking should be after 2026. 300 cases; 13%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills)

Authentique 2019 Wind Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir

The fruit comes from Harry and Wynne Peterson-Nedry's vineyard atop Ribbon Ridge. It has that AVA's typical seashell aromatic highlights, which continue through the palate, adding elegant textures and flavor dimensions. All the 2019s from Authentique are done in a style that keeps the alcohol down and emphasizes texture, balance and ageability. This is built to age and should appeal to those who favor the mix of steely fruit, acid and mineral over a more effusive berry-driven style. 150 cases; 13.2%; $75 (Ribbon Ridge)

Authentique 2019 Murto Vineyard Pinot Noir

Own-rooted Pommard from old vines is the story here. Fermented in stainless to emphasize aromatics and precision, this was aged in 30% new oak with a slightly higher toast level than its companion Pinots. The toast is subtle but a bit more apparent than in the others and adds a layer of chocolatey nougat to the tight, tart berry fruit. This borders on being reductive and needs aeration; if possible give it another couple years of bottle age. My second and third day tastings confirm that with time a truly complex and detailed wine will emerge. Drink 2025 - 2035. 150 cases; 13.1%; $75 (Dundee Hills)

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My Favorite NW Wines From 2022 (That You Can Still Buy!)

By now anyone who reads any wine coverage whatsoever has been buried in Best Of/Top 100 wine lists. And yet here I am offering one more. Why?

As I wrap up the first year of writing this blog, it's important to me to look back on the decisions I've made about which wines to feature. It's honestly fun to pick a few top favorites from among the hundreds of wines I've tasted and given the thumbs up. I make no pretense of having tasted much of anything outside of Washington, Oregon and California. This is not a 'best 100 wines out of the 25,000 we've reviewed this year' list. Nor does it includes wines costing many hundreds of dollars, or wines long ago sold out. I am calling out some of the top wines I've tasted in 2022 that are still available for purchase. Most are priced at $40 and under, with just a couple of exceptions.

These are exceptional wines from small producers, principally family-owned, with links to their websites for purchase. To be included they had first to be standouts among the weekly picks and reviews going back to last January. Rather than settle on an arbitrary Top 100 type number I've just rambled through my notes to find as many as I could that are still available. If you do not already purchase directly from winery websites I urge you to give it a try. If you have a favorite local wine shop you may of course ask them if they can find these wines for you. But more than a few are sold directly from the winery and not distributed.

My focus on boutique, family-owned wineries largely avoids widely-available wines with mass distribution. There are many reasons for this, and I'm not going to blather on about the problems with the three tier system in this post. We'll save that for another time. But here in the Pacific Northwest we are fortunate to be living in a special time and place for wine, and the region has many hundreds of small producers who cannot get distribution even if they want to. They don't make enough wine to stock grocery shelves; they don't have a marketing budget; they can't underprice Gallo or Constellation or any of the big wine corporations; or they simply have a different business model, one that relies on DTC – direct to consumer sales.

My featured wines are from the Pamplin winery and have not been reviewed before. These are splendid wines from top vineyards, and in terms of absolute value are bargains compared with comparables from California.

Think of this list as a treasure map. I taste many wines that are decent but not exceptional. The wines featured here are exceptional – for style, quality, creativity and price. And as I have written, they are also still available and most are priced under $40. To conserve space I include just one wine per winery though in many instances I could have chosen three or four others from the same winery. Note that in a few instances the vintage link may be updated to the newest release.

As a once-a-year bonus I am including my previously unpublished scores.

Happy New Year! My sincere thanks to all who support this website with wines, comments, time and attention.

White Wines

Amos Rome 2021 Estate Riesling

This cool climate wine hits all the marks. It's focused, detailed and juicy. Flavors of citrus and apple are supported with ample natural acidity, and it's backed with an impression of wet stone. It's firm, balanced and has the tartness to accompany a mix of shellfish and white fish. The finish lingers like a well-thrown changeup. 350 cases; 13.8%; $22 (Lake Chelan) 92/100

https://amosrome.orderport.net/product-details/0176/2021-Riesling

Gärd 2019 Riesling Ice Wine

Rare in Washington, this is a classic ice wine as might be found up in the Canadian Okanagan. The grapes were picked frozen in mid-January and fermentation was stopped with 214g/L (21%) residual sugar. It's quite rich with riper fruit than the Canadian styles, delivering a thick, palate-coasting pleasure ride down through layers of peaches, cream, toasted marshmallow, lemon meringue, cotton candy and candied orange. In short, a delicious wine that expands the extent of what types of wine the Royal Slope can produce. 96 cases (375ml); 11.5%; $70 (Royal Slope) 94/100

https://gardvintners.orderport.net/wines/product-search

Hyland 2021 Old Vine Single Vineyard Gewürztraminer

This is a very special wine, as it's sourced from own-rooted 50-year-old vines. Add to that a great vintage and a fine winemaking team and you have this treasure – rich, fragrant, true to variety and bursting with sweet citrus, pineapple, peach and pear fruit. The floral highlights are sensual without turning too perfumy, and the lingering finish brings hints of ginger and crushed rose petals. Whether you are familiar with this grape or not, this is a wine that should be experienced. 475 cases; 14.2%; $25 (McMinnville) 94/100

https://www.hylandestateswinery.com/Wines/Gewurztraminer

JC Somers 2021 Croft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

Jay Somers is another veteran winemaker who has embarked on a new chapter with this label. Sourcing from the Croft vineyard he is now in his third decade using these grapes. This is a well-defined, tightly woven wine with citrus rind, pineapple and grapefruit components. There is a lingering and well-integrated streak of zesty varietal grassiness so this is not a style if you don't like those flavors. That said, this is a Loire-style wine that should continue to develop nicely over the rest of this decade. 200 cases; 13%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

https://jcsomers.wine/buyjcsomersvintnerwines.html

Left Coast 2021 White Pinot Noir

Calling it a "flagship wine" for Left Coast, the winery backs up that claim with impressive volume. This is a winery that really knows how to make white Pinot, and better yet, sells it at a very modest price. This light straw colored wine has lovely snap and freshness, yet broadens out to display more lush flavors of white peach, melon and even a vein of vanilla. The blend includes tiny splashes of three other white grapes. 8710 cases; 13.5%; $23 (Van Duzer Corridor) 92/100

https://leftcoastwine.orderport.net/product-details/0838/2021-White-Pinot-Noir

Nicolas-Jay 2020 Affinités Chardonnay

Four vineyards contribute to this excellent wine, including Bishop Creek, Maresh and Elton. The wine is textured and sappy, balanced and fresh, with nicely knitted citrus and stone fruits. The acids are natural and lively, the finish almost electric. Recently bottled, this is already showing well but may benefit from more bottle age or decanting. 440 cases; 13%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

https://www.nicolas-jay.com/shop/ 

Paul O'Brien 2021 Bone Dry Riesling

Bone dry can be a nice way of saying sour as sucking on a lemon, but when it works well, as it does here, you have a succulent wine loaded with citrus flesh and rind. This brings a nice mix of lemon, grapefruit and tangerine, with refreshing acids and a touch of wet stone. Listed at just 11.5% abv, it's a wine you can enjoy with a wide variety of picnic foods, crab, lobster or noodle dishes. 138 cases; 11.5%; $26 (Umpqua Valley) 92/100

https://www.paulobrienwines.com/product/2021-Bone-Dry-Riesling

Pierce 2020 Van Horn Vineyard Riesling

Jess Pierce has a full-time gig at Walter Scott, where she also makes a small number of Rieslings, some in crown-capped, refillable 500 ml bottles. This is her chosen Riesling vineyard, located in the Hood River valley on the Oregon side of the Gorge. For such a low alcohol wine it is neither sweet nor sour, finessing its way through the twin poles of low alcohol Rieslings. Lovely texture and a refreshing mix of mineral, citrus skin, white peach and a dash of vanilla make this a compelling wine. It gets better on the second and third days after being opened, so aerate!. 150 cases (500ml); 11.5%; $15 (Columbia Gorge) 93/100

www.piercewines.com

Ruby 2019 Chardonnay

I've been banging the drum for Oregon Chardonnay for years and each successive vintage just proves the point. Ruby's latest release delights from the first sniff. Succulent flavors of mixed citrus are lively and refreshing, with appealing minerality. The wine is focused and deep, with lingering impact for a full minute or more. There's very little evidence of new oak, but with fruit this good it's not missed. 446 cases; 13%; $40 (Laurelwood District)

https://rubyvineyard.orderport.net/product-details/0382/2018-Chardonnay

Troon 2021 Druid's Fluid White Blend

This biodynamic blend is two thirds Vermentino, the rest split between Marsanne and Roussanne. If you like the wildness that comes with indigenous yeasts, biodynamic grapes and non-interventionist winemaking, this is your wine. It's quite different from the previous vintage but in many ways more interesting. Floral, citrus and sweet herbal flavors compound in a racy, sleek, spicy and quite fascinating wine. Rare to find such depth and complexity at this price. 285 cases; 12.6%; $25 (Applegate Valley) 92/100

https://troon-vineyard.obtainwine.com/product/2021-biodynamic-white-blend 

Red Wines

Amavi 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon

This estate-grown wine tilts in a Euro-style direction, with ample savory notes threaded around the core plum and berry fruit. The tannins take charge of the finish, ripe and full with just a hint of grit and toast. One quarter of the blend incorporates the four other Bordeaux grapes, all seamlessly integrated. It's not hard to see how the masterful blending skills of Director of Winemaking Jean-François Pellet have been fully utilized here. This is the sort of wine that should cellar well over the next decade at least. 4335 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla) 92/100

https://www.amavicellars.com/wine/2019-cabernet-sauvignon/

Aquilini 2019 10000 Hours Red Wine

This is the value brand for this powerhouse Red Mountain vineyard owner. The Red is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Aged 20 months in 35% new French oak, it drinks like a much more expensive wine. In a way it's old school Washington Cab, with alcohol topping out at 15%, though that's not unusual for Red Mountain. It's instantly appealing, smooth as silk, with a lush mix of red and black fruits and a big swath of mocha saturating the palate. Delicious now, it's certainly cellar-worthy for the rest of the decade. In my view previous reviewers dramatically undervalued this wine. 2447 cases; 15%; $35 (Red Mountain) 94/100

https://aquiliniwineshop.com/product/10-000-hours-red-blend/

Brittan Vineyards 2019 Cygnus Block Pinot Noir

The Cygnus designation, a nod to the swan in Greek mythology, is also a sly reference to the (Joseph) Swan clone of Pinot Noir featured here. Brightly fruity with raspberries, blueberries and cherries most prominent, it opens with the forward flavors of tangy red and blue fruits, then continues into deeper layers highlighted with espresso, wet stone, clean earth and savory herbs. The tannins are substantial, polished and firmed up from aging in 28% new French oak. Decant this for near term drinking; age this for up to 15 years. 136 cases; 13.3%; $65 (McMinnville) 95/100

https://brittanvineyards.com/shop/

Caprio 2019 Red Label Cabernet Sauvignon

Sourced from three estate vineyards this Cab-dominated Bordeaux blend includes 18% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. It's a choice example of top-tier Walla Walla reds. The tannins in particular have a burnished, lightly gritty complexity. The wine weaves together cassis and black fruits with a strong mineral base, along with touches of charcoal, coffee grounds and burnt toast. It's set up perfectly for steak or ribs off the grill. 340 cases; 14.5%; $48 93/100

https://capriocellars.orderport.net/product-details/0166/2020-Red-Label-Cab 

Co Dinn 2017 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Red Blend

This is 58% Cab, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Cab Franc, 10% Merlot,  and 9% Malbec – the first time Co Dinn added Cab Franc to this Bordeaux blend, completing the full house. If there is one wine from this entire overview you should absolutely try it is this one or its 2016 predecessor. Both are stellar examples of why and how Yakima Valley Bordeaux blends can and should be the iconic standards for Washington state. 14.6%; $50 (Rattlesnake Hills) 95/100

www.codinncellars.com

DeLille 2020 Le Dessein Red

Formerly marketed as Métier, this GSM blend is a meaty, serious red with a lovely mix of meaty, savory and fruit-driven flavors. Blueberries, black cherries, cassis, strawberry leaf and a touch of mineral all combine and lead through a powerful finish. Boushey, Stone Tree and Ciel du Cheval vineyards contributed the fruit, with the overall blend beautifully handled. 1400 cases; 14.5%; $45 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

https://www.delillecellars.com/wine/le-dessein/

Elizabeth Chambers 2019 Pinot Noir

Lush aromas of bramble and cherries highlight the entry and invite thoughtful sipping. Layered red fruits are dappled with citrus flesh and rind, giving the wine texture, balance and length. A fine value, this wine may be enjoyed immediately or cellared for up to a decade. 1400 cases; 13.2% abv; $38 92/100

https://elizabethchamberscellar.com

Entiat 2019 Syrah

Well I've never seen this tech note before! "Fermented in two stainless steel alfalfa seed bins; one whole berries and the other 50% whole cluster". There are a number of places in the Northwest that can produce superior, place-specific Syrah, and I'm adding this Rocky Reach vineyard (Double D) to the list. This splendid wine bears an astonishing likeness to a rather austere Northern Rhône Syrah, and despite the plus 15% alcohol it comes across as a bit restrained and herbal. It's sinuous and lean, persistent and aromatic, with brambly blackberries, thistle and a streak of mint tea. It sets your palate on notice that (to quote Stephen Stills) "there's something happening here; what is ain't exactly clear..." What is clear? This is going to be a superstar AVA. 143 cases; 15.3%; $28 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

https://www.entiatwines.com/index.cfm

Force Majeure 2019 Parabellum Coulée

This Rhône-style blend is three quarters Syrah with the balance a mix of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise. Wow! This is strikingly delicious, speared with a vein of minty tobacco, loaded with sweetly toasty flavors of blueberry, blackberry and marionberry fruit, and buoyed with natural acids. Essentially a GSM, it's fun to speculate on what the additions of the last two grapes contributed to the final flavors. 14.8%; $45 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/wines/parabellum/

Forgeron 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon

The vineyards are Seven Hills and Minnick Hills, representing quite different parts of the Walla Walla AVA. Pure varietal, aged two years in 20% new French oak, this is showing a lot of pretty raspberry fruit with snappy acids accenting the freshness. Beyond the immediate appeal is a solidly-built wine with medium term aging potential. For Walla Walla Cabernet at a high quality level it's a fine value. 407 cases; 14.7%; $35 (Walla Walla) 93/100

https://forgeroncellars.orderport.net/product-details/0611/2019-Forgeron-Cellars-Cabernet-Sauvignon

Gramercy Cellars 2017 Walla Walla Syrah

A blend of Les Collines and Holy Roller vineyard fruit, this was co-fermented with 3% Viognier. It's got an interesting mix of lemony acid, underbrush and brambly berry fruit. It's a subtle wine but it gathers strength and focus once in the mouth so don't give up on it. Gramercy Syrahs are often demanding. Lightly gamey, peppery and loaded with hints of anise, tarragon and umami. Wow! 931 cases; 13%; $40 (Walla Walla) 94/100

https://gramercycellars.com/shop/?view=product&slug=2017-walla-walla-syrah

L'Ecole 2020 Seven Hills Vineyard GSM

The three grapes are equally distributed here, all grown in the estate's Seven Hills vineyard. It hits a potent 15% alcohol, yet feels just right, poised and balanced. The red and purple berries, black cherries and plums share the center ring with lightly toasty tannins, black olive highlights and a streak of espresso. This is on the strong, dark side of the GSM universe, with excellent penetration through the finish. Should cellar well for the rest of the decade. 275 cases; 15%; $41 (Walla Walla) 92/100

https://www.lecole.com/wine/2020-estate-gsm/

Lujon 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon

I have long been a fan of Lujon's Cabernets and this may be the best vintage yet. It's toasty and compact, fresh with lovely cherry fruit at its core. The fruit comes from Birch Creek and Spofford Station, both terrific and yet under-the-radar vineyards for most wine drinkers. The blend includes 6% Malbec and 4%Merlot - a savvy and distinctive combination that broadens the palate and brings further detail through the finish. Aged 26 months in just 15% new oak. 433 cases; 14.8%; $34 (Walla Walla) 93/100

https://lujonwinecellars.com/product/2019-walla-walla-valley-cabernet-sauvignon/

Mercer 2018 Cavalie Reserve

The blend here is half Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest split between Malbec and Petit Verdot. Recently departed winemaker Jeremy Santo debuted with this vintage and hit a home run here. The blend is seamless and thick with flavors of black cherry, cassis, espresso, toasted walnuts and a hint of truffle. The tannins are ripe and full, with a touch of grit. All in all this is a beautiful wine and a terrific value, great for drinking with your summer barbecue or saving for a winter holiday meal sometime later this decade. 201 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Horse Heaven Hills) 94/100

https://shop.mercerwine.com/product/2018-Reserve-Cavalie-Red-Blend 

Ponzi 2018 Pinot Noir

Take a big sniff – this is what fresh, ripe Willamette Valley Pinot Noir should smell like – black fruits, cola/root beer, and a hint of underbrush. Once in the mouth and down the palate more details are revealed, slender threads of char, rubber, blackberries, brown spices and more. This level of complexity and length are most often found in more expensive Pinots. This trails out with clean flavors and should be enjoyed over the next half decade. 982 cases; 14.1%; $45 (Laurelwood District) 92/100

https://www.ponzivineyards.com/product/2018-Ponzi-Laurelwood-Pinot-Noir1

Quady North 2015 Arsenal Red

This is the current release of what is a (sort-of) Right Bank blend – 75% Cabernet Franc, 9% Merlot, 12% Malbec and a finishing splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has benefitted from the extra bottle age, smoothing out tannins and integrating the various component flavors. Blueberries, cooked plums and black cherries combine in a complex palate that is nicely layered and textured, all in good balance. Drink this now through the rest of this decade, decant if possible, and enjoy! 14.1%; $40 (Applegate Valley) 94/100

https://quadynorth.orderport.net/product-details/0482/2016-Arsenal-750ml-137pct

Reininger NV Helix Tucker Legacy Red

Formerly called Pomatia, this latest version was just bottled and includes a mix of unnamed grapes from around the Columbia valley. It's a substantial red, dark in color and showing real density and muscle. Most likely this includes a fair amount of Cabernet and a side order of Syrah; whatever the actual blend it brings generously ripe flavors of black fruits and cassis with a finishing lick of espresso. A fine value, this is a perfect go-to summer barbecue wine. 875 cases; 13.8%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

https://reiningerwinery.com/product/helix-tucker-legacy-red 

Rocky Pond 2019 Stratastone Red

Not indicated on the label, this is sourced from the Double D vineyard. It's a Rhône-style blend – 56% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 14% Mourvèdre. This is a total home run, with a bright and beautifully-ripened mix of spicy berry fruits, supported with light citrus acids and amplified with a hint of baking spices. 380 cases; 14.9%; $45 (Rocky Reach) 93/100

https://rockypondwinery.orderport.net/wines/Red-Wines

Saviah 2020 Syrah

Saviah has quietly accumulated a fine portfolio of estate vineyards scattered around the Walla Walla Valley, and many are part of this excellent blend. It's supremely drinkable, which is to say delicious despite its youth and balanced for immediate enjoyment. Plush with purple fruits, a streak of licorice, a sassy swatch of butterscotch and lifted with refreshing acids, this is one of those wines you won't be able to keep your hands off. 532 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla) 93/100

https://www.saviahcellars.com

TruthTeller 2020 The Clever Fool Cabernet Franc

Pure varietal, two thirds Elephant Mountain fruit, this is a tight, fine-tuned, steely wine with great tension and definition. The dark fruit flavors dig deep – cassis and black cherry, cola and char, espresso and a touch of granite. In short, a beautifully made wine with aging potential. 150 cases; 14.5%; $40 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

https://truthtellerwinery.orderport.net/product-details/0240/2020-The-Clever-Fool

Tulpen 2017 Yellowbird Vineyard Dryland Cabernet Sauvignon

This unique Walla Walla Cab is dry-farmed in a vineyard adjacent to Leonetti's Mill Creek Upland. If there's a Rutherford dust equivalent in Washington this may be it. Put this in a blind tasting against Rutherford's best. They will cost hundreds of dollars more. 100 cases; 14.7%; $45 (Walla Walla) 96/100

https://tulpencellars.com/shop/ols/products/2017-wwv-cabernet-sauvignon-yellow-bird-vineyard

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only recommended wines are shown, no negative reviews. My notes are posted with minimum delays and links to the winery website, so you may purchase recommended wines directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed.

Please send current and upcoming releases when your schedule (and favorable weather) allows. All new releases from Pacific Northwest wineries are welcome and will be tasted. Right now I am especially interested in wines from Northwest winemakers who feel they have been slighted by the press. Maybe some of what you believe are your best wines have gotten blah scores? Maybe the slam & spit traveling reviewers flat out ignored you? Or maybe you just want an unbiassed look at a couple of current releases that you really believe are exceptional. Send me the wines with a note about why you've chosen them. Complete shipping information is on this website. Questions? Ask me at paulgwine@me.com. Results will be posted on a future 'Deep Dive'.

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt

JJ Williams Talks Scores and Third Gen Changes At Kiona

With a 50th anniversary in view and a third generation firmly in control Red Mountain's Kiona Vineyards can easily lay claim to being one of Washington's most important pioneers. And though more than 60 wineries compete for Kiona grapes, for many consumers the namesake winery remains under the radar and is usually left off the myriad end-of-year 'Top 100" lists that sprout like mushrooms in December. I recently chatted about this with General Manager JJ Williams, who handles the sales and marketing while his brother Tyler holds the winemaking reins. We talked about the history, the wines, the power of scores and why/how they take "a different approach" to the making and selling of wine at Kiona.

Quick history:  Patriarch John Williams partnered with his work buddy Jim Holmes to plant the first grapes on Red Mountain back in 1975. A book could (and should) be written about the growth and development of this all-star AVA, but I'll refer you to Kiona's website for details.

Fast forward to 2022. Kiona owns and farms five different sites (272 acres under vine) on Red Mountain and sells grapes to more than 60 wineries. Their personal production is around 30,000 cases and includes a varied mix of white and red, dry and sweet, varietal and blended wines, all estate-grown. Tyler Williams took over the winemaking from his father Scott in 2019, so the changes he brings to the red wines are just now beginning to appear.

My limited exposure to recent vintages of Kiona already seems to show a pretty clear distinction from the wines I remember from a decade or more ago. In keeping with current winemaking trends I expect that rather high alcohol numbers on the current red wine releases will trend down, as they have at many wineries around the state. An email from JJ confirms this impression.

JJ:  "Historically the winery got among the last picks of the vintage from Kiona (the vineyard), since we generally would triage our contract customer’s pick preferences and targets above our own. It would drive me crazy when people/writers/industry people would say something along the lines of 'Kiona grows for a bunch of wineries, but keeps the best fruit for themselves' insinuating somehow we were nerfing what our grape customers were getting.

"Since Tyler came aboard, one of the first things he emphasized was increasing our picking capability/bandwidth, and treating Kiona (the winery) as a grape customer on its own. This is a win-win solution; we are still able to deliver the fruit our customers want, while the winery gets to have a say in what gets picked and when. We’re only a couple vintages in at this point, but if you graphed harvest Brix of the fruit we’re bringing in and the corresponding alcohols of the products made with that fruit, there’s a downward trend."

PG:  Despite the 15% and higher alcohol numbers all of the current reds that I list below are balanced and rich, with excellent tannin management. The challenge ahead is to keep the power and aging potential while picking at lower brix.

Our conversation next turned to the importance of scores, as I have been chewing on how and whether (or not) to score wines ever since I left Wine Enthusiast and started this website a year ago. I have no grudge against the practice – I scored many thousands of wines while writing for the magazine. But I thought it might separate me from the pack of score-obsessed reviewers to focus on extended tastings in controlled conditions with limited numbers of carefully-chosen wines.

I asked JJ for his evaluation of my decision in light of the industry's continuing reliance on promoting numbers.

JJ:  "Getting your wine in front of the distributor is why scores are important. I'm running an winery now where our scores range 89 to 93. Not high enough to really move the needle from the consumers' perspective like a 96 does. But if I'm courting a distributor in Georgia or wherever every conversation comes down to 'give me the price list and what are the scores?' That's frustrating but it's what they need to cut through the noise."

PG:  Not really a surprise, given all the years scores have dominated the business side of wine sales. But it begs the question – with score inflation an undeniable fact, and with wineries and distributors and retailers choosing to promote the highest number given by whomever in order to sell their wine, what's the real value of scores? Years ago a Parker score meant something because you knew the man's palate and there was little real competition. You could agree or disagree, but at least you could dial in his particular preferences and go from there. Today scores come out of left field from myriad websites, blogs, publications, newsletters and wine competitions. Who bothers to sort out one source from another, or assign a higher value to the source rather than the number? No one as far as I can tell. If I were a winery I'd do the same thing. Check all the reviews and scores for any given wine, pick the highest number, and use that.

JJ:  "Scores are a 'gatekeeper topic'. People will lean on a score from publication 'A' or a 98 and Double Gold from a competition that you paid $800 to enter. So you pick the highest number and let 'er rip."

Then there is the difficulty of obtaining any reviews at all.

JJ:  "We have a good story [at Kiona], but there's a lot of compelling wines from compelling regions and with compelling packaging that we're competing with. It's difficult for wineries to get reviews. Some publications charge; some have limited times for submission windows; some reviews are published so late that the wine is already gone by the time the review appears."

PG:  It's no secret that many wineries are struggling, even those with gold-plated credentials and stories to match. Costs for everything from corks to glass to grapes to wages are climbing. The wine market is beyond saturated. A handful of big companies control supermarket aisles and distribution channels. Many Millennials and younger drinkers from the alphabet generations seem more interested in spirits, beer, mocktails, cannabis and abstinence than pounding down their grandfather's overpriced, over-oaked Cabernet.

Which is why I salute the Williams family for carving out a path that both honors their history and protects their future. Their wines are good, sometimes great, and quality is definitely on an upward curve. Their business is grounded in the very ground they own. As they point out on their website, "there are no third party banks or outside investors influencing our decisions. We take ownership of our product from the first berry to the finished bottle. Kiona exists because we made it, meaning our wine carries a pure-bred pedigree that spans generations and speaks volumes."

These are honest, authentic, sturdy wines offered at very fair market-friendly prices. I've spent several days with some of the current releases. All may be purchased directly here.

Kiona 2021 Sage Advice White Wine

This 58% Roussanne/21% Viognier/21% Chenin Blanc blend is sourced from three different estate vineyards (Ranch, Artz & Kiona). Though an earlier version used Bordeaux blanc as a model, this new iteration walks a tightrope between Rhône and Loire styles, pushing out fruit skin and flesh, barrel toast and a firm tannic foundation. 130 cases; 14.2%; $32 (Red Mountain)

Kiona 2021 Sangiovese

This is light and aromatic, not done in the over-ripe Cabernet style often found in domestic Sangios. In the blend are 3% each Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. It's subtle, a bit mute right after being opened, and even on day two it's a delicate wine that rewards extra attention. Balsa, strawberries, dried roses and other details come to mind. It's most enjoyable alone or with a light entrée. 14%; $32 (Red Mountain)

Kiona 2018 Ranch Red

Part of the winery's Vineyard Series, whose goal is to have a high-end designated wine from each estate vineyard, this is all from the Ranch at the End of the Road, the third site ever planted on Red Mountain. It's mostly Cabernet with 5% Petit Verdot and 2.5% Zinfandel. The emphasis is on the savory side of Cabernet; the tannins are astringent, ripe and balanced, and the long finish adds notes of licorice, black tea, black olive and smoke. Drink now through 2030s. 261 cases; 15.5%; $85 (Red Mountain) 

Kiona 2018 Carmenère

From vines planted in 2008, the aromas bring scents of toasted coconut, followed by classic varietal plum and herb and stem flavors with a touch of green tannins. It's a low acid variety, with good focus, tight tannins, and that lingering touch of toast. The label is worth a closer look – the green represents the flavors of the grape, the shape of the vineyard (tetramino - meaning four adjoining squares) is shown on the label front; the vineyard blocks are detailed on the back and an EKG symbol represents the Heart of the Hill vineyard. 196 cases; 15%; $60 (Red Mountain) 

Kiona 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

With multiple vineyard sites covering over 200 acres on Red Mountain, Kiona is in a unique position to offer estate wines that are also meaningful blends from this high profile but small AVA. As the alcohol below indicates there's no problem as far as ripeness, though in pursuit of maximum sugars this wine sacrifices a bit of the grape's earthy green flavors in pursuit of a bountiful mix of berries and cherries. The tannins are smooth and lightly chocolatey. 4343 cases; 15.6%; $32 (Red Mountain)

Kiona 2018 Red Mountain Reserve

This is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with a half dozen other varieties filling out the remaining 30%. It's the best of a potent 2018 lineup from Kiona, and it is aimed at showing what is special and particular to Red Mountain reds. This complex wine marries ripe berry/cherry/cassis fruit with smooth tannins dusted with cocoa and coffee grounds. It's ready to go and may be enjoyed immediately and then re-tasted over the next five to ten years. Not that it can't age longer, but that's a surefire drinking window. 709 cases; 15%; $65 (Red Mountain) 

Kiona 2018 Malbec

Malbec as a varietal wine is an outlier but bottles such as this should push it further into the spotlight. All estate-grown, this is a well-ripened wine that loads the palate with rich flavors of cassis, black cherry, licorice, black tea and cocoa nibs. There's a touch of bourbon barrel and the alcohol is unabashedly high in the best old-school style. A small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from the original 1975 block is mixed in the final blend. 372 cases; 15.3%; $40 (Red Mountain)

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only recommended wines are shown, no negative reviews. My notes are posted with minimum delays and links to the winery website, so you may purchase recommended wines directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed.

Coming next week: Highlights of recent tastings and a special guest interview!

Please send current and upcoming releases when your schedule (and favorable weather) allows. All new releases from Pacific Northwest wineries are welcome and will be tasted. Right now I am especially interested in wines from Northwest winemakers who feel they have been slighted by the press. Maybe some of what you believe are your best wines have gotten blah scores? Maybe the slam & spit traveling reviewers flat out ignored you? Or maybe you just want an unbiassed look at a couple of current releases that you really believe are exceptional. Send me the wines with a note about why you've chosen them. Complete shipping information is on this website. Questions? Ask me at paulgwine@me.com. Results will be posted on a future 'Deep Dive'. 

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt