Paul G's Salon des Vins Refusés

One hundred and sixty years ago the French government and the Academy of Fine Arts sponsored an art show called the Paris Salon. As noted here it was "an annual showcase of the best academic art. A medal from the Salon was assurance of a successful artistic career; winners were given official commissions by the French government, and were sought after for portraits and private commissions. The paintings were classified by genre, following a specific hierarchy; history paintings were ranked first, followed by the portrait, the landscape, the genre scene and finally the still life."

As you might imagine competition for acceptance into the Salon was fierce, and in 1863 so many works were turned down that protests erupted and ultimately reached the attention of Emperor Napoleon III. He authorized a second showcase, which came to be known as the Salon des Refusés. Although works by such artists as Paul Cézanne, Gustave Courbet, Camille Pissarro, Édouard Manet and James McNeill Whistler were among the refusés on display, the show was largely ridiculed by the press and the public.

Now think about how wines are evaluated today. Most wines are never even tasted by influential reviewers and publications. Wineries often must apply for permission and sometimes pay a fee to make submissions, with no guarantee that their wines will be tasted. Some turn instead to the myriad pay-to-play wine competitions that hand out gold medals like free popcorn at the movies. Notice that highly-rated 'cult' wines are virtually never entered into these competitions. There is an unofficial hierarchy as far as who gets reviewed in the mags. Wineries and trade organizations that buy expensive advertising have a leg up. Wines from prestigious regions and grapes (Napa Valley Cabernet, French Champagne, Italian Barolo for example) are almost guaranteed a place at the tasting table. But if you have an especially fine Rogue Valley Carignan? Good luck with that!

Looked at in this way many small and excellent wineries find that their wines are refusés. Perhaps a winery is too small for distributors to work with. Or there is no budget for advertising in the major wine publications; no interest in pay-to-play influencers and wine competitions. Maybe someone's wines are too original, different, edgy or wild for most palates. Oftentimes wines are released too soon, tasted too quickly and jammed together with a couple dozen other wines in a slam bam "blind" tasting. Even worse, those wineries that hold wines back to give them proper bottle age find that the major publications have already passed that vintage by in the rush to be the first to put numbers on the most recent. 

This website is dedicated to searching out and promoting the best of these refusés. After I put out a call for wines that had been overlooked by the mainstream press some absolutely marvelous bottles turned up, exceeding my expectations. I spotlight the best of them here, and welcome future submissions for my next Salon des Vins Refusés. 

SIDE NOTE:  My friend Tom Wark is working with those who support a bill in Washington state that would legalize wine shipments to consumers from out-of-state retailers. The current laws allow consumers to purchase directly from out-of-state wineries (hence my ability to link recommendations to winery websites). The proposed changes would expand those rights and allow consumers to order wines from out of state retailers, auction houses and wine-of-the-month clubs. Bottom line, you would have access to far more wines than are currently available to Washington residents. For example, you could purchase very limited offerings from Oregon that might only be available from a Portland or Ashland wine shop.

If you favor these changes here is a link that explains the legalities and includes an easy option to send your support to members of the House and Senate committees in charge of upcoming public hearings.

https://www.winefreedom.org/washingtoncampaign/ 

Meanwhile, check out these truly outstanding vins refusés from my recent tastings.

Adega Northwest

This Portland-based winery makes small lots of Alvarinho, Chardonnay, Riesling, Marsanne, Roussanne, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Mataro/Mourvèdre), Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, Souzao, Graciano and Port Style wines. I tasted several sourced from well-selected Washington state vineyards. These are big wines, balanced and full-bodied. These 2016s appear to be the most recent (current) releases. They may be purchased here.

Adega Northwest 2016 Gamache Vineyard – Block 19 Cabernet Sauvignon

This excellent vineyard is in the new White Bluffs AVA. Here the fruit is young and juicy with flavors of salmonberry and a touch of tart rhubarb. The lightest of the three reviewed here, it should be paired with a poultry or pasta dish rather than a thick steak. 125 cases; 14.5%; $40 (Columbia Valley)

Adega Northwest 2016 Two Blondes Vineyard – Block 7 Cabernet Sauvignon

This is a supple, luxurious, palate-soaker of a Cabernet. The vineyard, planted in 2000 by Chris Camarda for Andrew Will, is now in full maturity and this wine shows it beautifully. Cassis, elderberry, dried leaves, dusty earth, coffee grounds and on and on. This is the type of wine you can happily sniff for a long time before you ever take a swallow. But once you swallow, you're hooked. 125 cases; 14.4%; $40 (Columbia Valley)

Adega Northwest 2016 Weinbau Vineyard – Block 10 Cabernet Sauvignon

This well-made wine from a classic Washington vineyard has benefitted from the additional bottle age. It's toasty with a café crème character from 21 months in 40% new oak. These Adega Cabs are all fermented in stainless steel and perfectly ripened, with a nice balance. The barrel aging adds subtle layers of toast and almond paste. Hard to pick a favorite from this Cabernet trio, but if I had to this would be it. 125 cases; 14.8%; $40 (Wahluke Slope)

Adega Northwest 2016 Double Canyon Vineyard Malbec

Produced in Portland, this single vineyard, single variety wine is deep, rich and dense, with compelling aromas of cassis, bramble, blackberries and pepper, with following flavors. Though the high alcohol may push this past tolerance for some wine drinkers, it's very well made, potent and set against balancing acids and ripe tannins. One third of the barrels were new. 100 cases; 15.1%; $32 (Horse Heaven Hills)

Anacréon

This young winery takes its name from a Greek poet who is known for his odes to love and wine.

Here is an excellent map of the estate vineyard with details on individual blocks, clones and rootstock.

These wines may be purchased here: https://www.anacreonwinery.com/shop

Anacréon 2020 Deep End Pinot Noir

This is what the winery calls its "benchmark" (largest production) Pinot Noir. All estate-grown from a low elevation, early-ripening site, it was picked before the smoke hit in 2020, though unfortunately the significant numbers of very fine 2020 Pinots all got tarred with the same smoky brush by the national wine press. Note the alcohol here, which places this firmly in a Burgundy camp stylistically. Tart, lightly savory and elegant, it handles its 40% new French oak well. Give it breathing room and the fruit pops up with that pleasing frame of barrel toast. 125 cases; 12.8%; $65 (Chehalem Mountains)

Anacréon 2020 Mine Yours and Ours Pinot Noir

This is a two-barrel selection from estate-grown Coury and Pommard clone grapes. The goal, says the winery, is "elegance and lightness on the palate". After 17 months in barrel and another eight in bottle it remains closed up, with the astringent tannins concealing the expected burst of fruit from these clones. A full day after being opened its aromatic notes of berries and bramble, earth and wet bark came out, and the elegant hints of orange peel, cherry pit, plum and chocolate could be sussed out. This seems sure to benefit from further bottle age. 50 cases; 12.7%; $80 (Chehalem Mountains)

Anacréon 2020 Center of Gravity Pinot Noir

Due for an April release, this included 20% whole clusters and got a bit more barrel and bottle age than the other two wines. Though the listed alcohol is the same, this is a bigger, sturdier wine with a more muscular balance. Plum, black cherry and even a hint of cassis roll across the palate, with savory, drying tannins bringing up the rear. Among the three 2020 cuvées from Anacréon, this is the one to tuck away for later enjoyment. 50 cases; 12.7%; $90 (Chehalem Mountains)

Arabilis

Located near Bethel Heights winery and dedicated to the production of sparkling wines, Arabilis (from the Latin for arable) clearly selects its vineyard sources with exceptional care. I was especially taken with the two Chardonnays featured below. These wines may be purchased here: https://arabiliswines.com/purchase/

Arabilis 2020 Chardonnay

Sourced from a pair of Columbia Gorge vineyards, this shows the kind of detail and lightly throttled wildness that comes from judicious handling of native yeasts and hands-off winemaking. "Rigorous field sorting" as the winery notes has also contributed to the finesse and depth of the final product. A mix of wildflower aromatics, citrus rind, sappy acids and penetrating flavors of Meyer lemon, this was aged for a full year in neutral oak and finished in stainless. This is one of a new generation of Oregon Chardonnays that deserve close attention and display previously unsuspected strengths of the grape. 84 cases; 12.8%; $32 (Columbia Gorge)

Arabilis 2021 Dampier Vineyard Chardonnay

All Wente clone from vines more than 30 years old, this reflects many of the same strengths as Chardonnays from the better known Celilo vineyard in the Gorge. A steely core is packed with dense, tangy stone and citrus fruits. Just a light touch of new oak adds notes of popcorn and toast. The wine keeps a nice focus through a lingering finish. 73 cases; 13.8%; $42 (Columbia Gorge)

Arabilis 2018 Pinot Noir

Half Sojeau and half Cristom's Eileen vineyard fruit, this is a fine evocation of Eola-Amity Hills terroir. In keeping with a modern aesthetic no new barrels were used and the ferment included whole clusters and native yeasts. This fits in nicely with other top wines from the region, mixing tightly wound accents of stem and skin with sleek cherry fruit. It's been in bottle for two years but could use a bit more time to reach full potential. 152 cases; 13.6%; $50 (Willamette Valley)

Arabilis 2019 Pinot Noir

This vintage offers good structure, upfront phenolic bite and an underlying savory/earthy character that for some tasters may overtake the fruit. Sourced from Sojeau, Zenith and an "undisclosed" Chehalem Mountain vineyard (my guess - Chehalem) this remains pretty compact and unyielding, which is typical for the vintage. Let it breathe and the aromatics bloom, with rose petals and cherry blossoms. Core flavors bring cranberry, white cherry and a touch of caraway. Best drinking window may be the back half of this decade. 132 cases; 13.6%; $50 (Willamette Valley)

Liberty Lake

Winemaker Mark Lathrop explains "the reason I picked the Syrah is because Wine Spectator reviewed my 2016 vintage (my first) and gave it a 92. It was the highest scored Washington wine in the issue and they put Sarah and I’s picture in the magazine. They reviewed my ’17 and gave it a 91. However, they have refused to accept any of my wines for review since then. It drives me nuts! The Syrah is sourced from Kiona’s Ranch at the End of the Road vineyard and my block is a stones throw from the bottom of WeatherEye which has all the buzz."

Liberty Lake 2019 Reserve Syrah

This luscious Syrah was sourced from Kiona's Ranch at the End of the Road vineyard on Red Mountain. It entices immediately with a rich, fruity fragrance. Loaded with blackberries, black cherries and cassis, this stellar effort adds varietally-specific streaks of bacon fat, espresso and cigar tobacco. The balance and depth are impressive, and suggest that this will develop nicely over the next half decade. 193 cases; 14%; $45 (Red Mountain)

Long Walk Vineyard

Long Walk Vineyard 2020 Carignan

One of the great pleasures of doing this website is the opportunity to see more deeply into any one region's wines. Sometimes it's the small, off-the-radar producers who are doing some of the most interesting, cutting edge work. I can count on one hand the number of Oregon Carignans I've ever had, so this is an especially fun discovery. Aromatic, ruby red, replete with scents of marionberry pie, this is a mouth filling wine that absolutely charms from start to finish. It's pure varietal from organically grown fruit, nicely balanced with sassy acids, ripe tannins and moderate alcohol. 71 cases; 13.6%; $38 (Rogue Valley)

Long Walk Vineyard 2020 Grenache

Grenache does well in southern Oregon. This pure varietal example captures the red berry essence of the grape, from cranberry to raspberry and a hint of cherry. Tannins are drying, astringent, and set up your mouth for a juicy burger, slice of pizza or thick steak. No new barrels were used, the winery says, "to preserve the rustic yet delicate tannins." Bravo! Decant this wine to bring out its best. 68 cases; 13.6%; $35 (Rogue Valley)

https://www.longwalkvineyard.com/wines

Rex Hill

From the winery: "Our Benchrock Pinot Noir is produced only in extraordinary vintages, highlighting exceptional blocks of our star estate vineyard, Jacob Hart. The 2017 is the first bottling in this series and is comprised of the last of the originally planted, own-rooted vines from the only spot in the vineyard with abundant clay and no rocks. Block 1 produces lighter tannins and more elegant wines than the concentrated, structured fruit resulting from the rockier blocks above it, and is Executive Winemaker Michael Davies’ personal favorite."

Rex Hill 2017 Benchrock Pinot Noir

The winery's Jacob Hart estate vineyard has a special clay block that was the source of this wine; apparently the last vintage from the original (1983) planting. Biodynamically-farmed, it comes with a moderate amount of composty/earthy highlights, set against blood orange and pie cherry fruit. There's an appealing elegance, a delicate frame that yet persists through a long, clean, detailed finish. Currently in a very fine drinking window, but built to age another decade or more. (Sold out) 93 cases; 13.9%; $100 (Chehalem Mountains)

Soter

Soter 2015 Mineral Springs Blanc de Noirs

This is the first Blanc de Noirs from Soter and it's a beauty. A lovely straw hue, with tiny bead and effusive nose, this bottle commemorates the late Michelle Soter. Pure, elegant and expressive, it gathers itself in a concentrated palate replete with passion fruit, ginger, currant and raspberry, finishing with a creamy hint of chocolate. Tasted several times over many days, it held together and lost not a bit of complexity. Drink now and over the next 20 years. 160 cases; 12.8%; $100 (Yamhill-Carlton)

https://purchase.sotervineyards.com/product/2015-Mineral-Springs-Blanc-de-Noirs

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WINERIES:  The wines you submit are tasted over many hours and days in peer groups. NEW:  scores for posted reviews are available by request. Only notes for recommended wines are published, no negative reviews. I link to your website to facilitate DTC sales. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees. Please help promote this website by publishing my reviews on your own website, e-blasts, etc. 

Please send current and upcoming releases according to your own schedule (check with me first re: weather/travel exceptions). All new releases from Pacific Northwest wineries are welcome and will be tasted. Please direct Questions/Comments to paulgwine@me.com.

Coming next week:  The Riesling Conundrum 

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt

JJ Williams Talks Scores and Third Gen Changes At Kiona

With a 50th anniversary in view and a third generation firmly in control Red Mountain's Kiona Vineyards can easily lay claim to being one of Washington's most important pioneers. And though more than 60 wineries compete for Kiona grapes, for many consumers the namesake winery remains under the radar and is usually left off the myriad end-of-year 'Top 100" lists that sprout like mushrooms in December. I recently chatted about this with General Manager JJ Williams, who handles the sales and marketing while his brother Tyler holds the winemaking reins. We talked about the history, the wines, the power of scores and why/how they take "a different approach" to the making and selling of wine at Kiona.

Quick history:  Patriarch John Williams partnered with his work buddy Jim Holmes to plant the first grapes on Red Mountain back in 1975. A book could (and should) be written about the growth and development of this all-star AVA, but I'll refer you to Kiona's website for details.

Fast forward to 2022. Kiona owns and farms five different sites (272 acres under vine) on Red Mountain and sells grapes to more than 60 wineries. Their personal production is around 30,000 cases and includes a varied mix of white and red, dry and sweet, varietal and blended wines, all estate-grown. Tyler Williams took over the winemaking from his father Scott in 2019, so the changes he brings to the red wines are just now beginning to appear.

My limited exposure to recent vintages of Kiona already seems to show a pretty clear distinction from the wines I remember from a decade or more ago. In keeping with current winemaking trends I expect that rather high alcohol numbers on the current red wine releases will trend down, as they have at many wineries around the state. An email from JJ confirms this impression.

JJ:  "Historically the winery got among the last picks of the vintage from Kiona (the vineyard), since we generally would triage our contract customer’s pick preferences and targets above our own. It would drive me crazy when people/writers/industry people would say something along the lines of 'Kiona grows for a bunch of wineries, but keeps the best fruit for themselves' insinuating somehow we were nerfing what our grape customers were getting.

"Since Tyler came aboard, one of the first things he emphasized was increasing our picking capability/bandwidth, and treating Kiona (the winery) as a grape customer on its own. This is a win-win solution; we are still able to deliver the fruit our customers want, while the winery gets to have a say in what gets picked and when. We’re only a couple vintages in at this point, but if you graphed harvest Brix of the fruit we’re bringing in and the corresponding alcohols of the products made with that fruit, there’s a downward trend."

PG:  Despite the 15% and higher alcohol numbers all of the current reds that I list below are balanced and rich, with excellent tannin management. The challenge ahead is to keep the power and aging potential while picking at lower brix.

Our conversation next turned to the importance of scores, as I have been chewing on how and whether (or not) to score wines ever since I left Wine Enthusiast and started this website a year ago. I have no grudge against the practice – I scored many thousands of wines while writing for the magazine. But I thought it might separate me from the pack of score-obsessed reviewers to focus on extended tastings in controlled conditions with limited numbers of carefully-chosen wines.

I asked JJ for his evaluation of my decision in light of the industry's continuing reliance on promoting numbers.

JJ:  "Getting your wine in front of the distributor is why scores are important. I'm running an winery now where our scores range 89 to 93. Not high enough to really move the needle from the consumers' perspective like a 96 does. But if I'm courting a distributor in Georgia or wherever every conversation comes down to 'give me the price list and what are the scores?' That's frustrating but it's what they need to cut through the noise."

PG:  Not really a surprise, given all the years scores have dominated the business side of wine sales. But it begs the question – with score inflation an undeniable fact, and with wineries and distributors and retailers choosing to promote the highest number given by whomever in order to sell their wine, what's the real value of scores? Years ago a Parker score meant something because you knew the man's palate and there was little real competition. You could agree or disagree, but at least you could dial in his particular preferences and go from there. Today scores come out of left field from myriad websites, blogs, publications, newsletters and wine competitions. Who bothers to sort out one source from another, or assign a higher value to the source rather than the number? No one as far as I can tell. If I were a winery I'd do the same thing. Check all the reviews and scores for any given wine, pick the highest number, and use that.

JJ:  "Scores are a 'gatekeeper topic'. People will lean on a score from publication 'A' or a 98 and Double Gold from a competition that you paid $800 to enter. So you pick the highest number and let 'er rip."

Then there is the difficulty of obtaining any reviews at all.

JJ:  "We have a good story [at Kiona], but there's a lot of compelling wines from compelling regions and with compelling packaging that we're competing with. It's difficult for wineries to get reviews. Some publications charge; some have limited times for submission windows; some reviews are published so late that the wine is already gone by the time the review appears."

PG:  It's no secret that many wineries are struggling, even those with gold-plated credentials and stories to match. Costs for everything from corks to glass to grapes to wages are climbing. The wine market is beyond saturated. A handful of big companies control supermarket aisles and distribution channels. Many Millennials and younger drinkers from the alphabet generations seem more interested in spirits, beer, mocktails, cannabis and abstinence than pounding down their grandfather's overpriced, over-oaked Cabernet.

Which is why I salute the Williams family for carving out a path that both honors their history and protects their future. Their wines are good, sometimes great, and quality is definitely on an upward curve. Their business is grounded in the very ground they own. As they point out on their website, "there are no third party banks or outside investors influencing our decisions. We take ownership of our product from the first berry to the finished bottle. Kiona exists because we made it, meaning our wine carries a pure-bred pedigree that spans generations and speaks volumes."

These are honest, authentic, sturdy wines offered at very fair market-friendly prices. I've spent several days with some of the current releases. All may be purchased directly here.

Kiona 2021 Sage Advice White Wine

This 58% Roussanne/21% Viognier/21% Chenin Blanc blend is sourced from three different estate vineyards (Ranch, Artz & Kiona). Though an earlier version used Bordeaux blanc as a model, this new iteration walks a tightrope between Rhône and Loire styles, pushing out fruit skin and flesh, barrel toast and a firm tannic foundation. 130 cases; 14.2%; $32 (Red Mountain)

Kiona 2021 Sangiovese

This is light and aromatic, not done in the over-ripe Cabernet style often found in domestic Sangios. In the blend are 3% each Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. It's subtle, a bit mute right after being opened, and even on day two it's a delicate wine that rewards extra attention. Balsa, strawberries, dried roses and other details come to mind. It's most enjoyable alone or with a light entrée. 14%; $32 (Red Mountain)

Kiona 2018 Ranch Red

Part of the winery's Vineyard Series, whose goal is to have a high-end designated wine from each estate vineyard, this is all from the Ranch at the End of the Road, the third site ever planted on Red Mountain. It's mostly Cabernet with 5% Petit Verdot and 2.5% Zinfandel. The emphasis is on the savory side of Cabernet; the tannins are astringent, ripe and balanced, and the long finish adds notes of licorice, black tea, black olive and smoke. Drink now through 2030s. 261 cases; 15.5%; $85 (Red Mountain) 

Kiona 2018 Carmenère

From vines planted in 2008, the aromas bring scents of toasted coconut, followed by classic varietal plum and herb and stem flavors with a touch of green tannins. It's a low acid variety, with good focus, tight tannins, and that lingering touch of toast. The label is worth a closer look – the green represents the flavors of the grape, the shape of the vineyard (tetramino - meaning four adjoining squares) is shown on the label front; the vineyard blocks are detailed on the back and an EKG symbol represents the Heart of the Hill vineyard. 196 cases; 15%; $60 (Red Mountain) 

Kiona 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

With multiple vineyard sites covering over 200 acres on Red Mountain, Kiona is in a unique position to offer estate wines that are also meaningful blends from this high profile but small AVA. As the alcohol below indicates there's no problem as far as ripeness, though in pursuit of maximum sugars this wine sacrifices a bit of the grape's earthy green flavors in pursuit of a bountiful mix of berries and cherries. The tannins are smooth and lightly chocolatey. 4343 cases; 15.6%; $32 (Red Mountain)

Kiona 2018 Red Mountain Reserve

This is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with a half dozen other varieties filling out the remaining 30%. It's the best of a potent 2018 lineup from Kiona, and it is aimed at showing what is special and particular to Red Mountain reds. This complex wine marries ripe berry/cherry/cassis fruit with smooth tannins dusted with cocoa and coffee grounds. It's ready to go and may be enjoyed immediately and then re-tasted over the next five to ten years. Not that it can't age longer, but that's a surefire drinking window. 709 cases; 15%; $65 (Red Mountain) 

Kiona 2018 Malbec

Malbec as a varietal wine is an outlier but bottles such as this should push it further into the spotlight. All estate-grown, this is a well-ripened wine that loads the palate with rich flavors of cassis, black cherry, licorice, black tea and cocoa nibs. There's a touch of bourbon barrel and the alcohol is unabashedly high in the best old-school style. A small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from the original 1975 block is mixed in the final blend. 372 cases; 15.3%; $40 (Red Mountain)

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only recommended wines are shown, no negative reviews. My notes are posted with minimum delays and links to the winery website, so you may purchase recommended wines directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed.

Coming next week: Highlights of recent tastings and a special guest interview!

Please send current and upcoming releases when your schedule (and favorable weather) allows. All new releases from Pacific Northwest wineries are welcome and will be tasted. Right now I am especially interested in wines from Northwest winemakers who feel they have been slighted by the press. Maybe some of what you believe are your best wines have gotten blah scores? Maybe the slam & spit traveling reviewers flat out ignored you? Or maybe you just want an unbiassed look at a couple of current releases that you really believe are exceptional. Send me the wines with a note about why you've chosen them. Complete shipping information is on this website. Questions? Ask me at paulgwine@me.com. Results will be posted on a future 'Deep Dive'. 

Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt

Here Comes That Damn Turkey! What Wine Do I Drink?

For some decades now the obligatory Thanksgiving week wine column has inevitably circled the turkey, as if that mandatory holiday fowl were some deeply mysterious entrée requiring special expertise to accompany. I confess I've written more than a few of these columns at the behest of various editors, and I'm happy to give you the condensed wisdom of my numerous expositions on this important matter. What wine to serve at Thanksgiving? 

ANY WINE!

OK, we've got that out of the way. It really doesn't matter what, nor does it really have to be wine. Beer and turkey? Why not? But since this website is dedicated to wine writing, if you really want to try beer instead, let me point you to my friend Steve Body's excellent website The Pour Fool for a comprehensive and highly opinionated look at the world of suds.

As for me, I've gone through several different phases of actually choosing my own Thanksgiving wines over time. My main strategy for a number of years was to host a dinner with a rather sizeable guest list, so that I could open a great many bottles and let everyone choose for themselves (after I had of course 'qualified' each bottle with a sip or two). When Beaujolais Nouveau had its moment of glory back in the day I'd feature a bottle or two (one from France, one from Oregon) as a nod to the season. When those wines plateaued at their current insipid status I turned to vintage-dated cru Beaujolais from France. Those wines are still a good option though not always easy to find.

In recent years I've leaned into Oregon Pinot Noir which remains about as good a single choice option as you can find (and you can find many good ones by scrolling through recent posts on this website). But this year, given our excessively cold weather (at least here in the Pacific Northwest) I'm diving directly into the heartiest reds I can find, zeroing in on Syrah, G-S-Ms and other substantial Rhône-style red blends. I'll toss in a couple of outstanding Viogniers also, because some folks don't like reds and few white wines are as well-suited to a vast spread of rich side dishes.

Years ago, while at a mandatory Thanksgiving dinner with my-then large and diverse family of in-laws, I was introduced to a particular specialty of a distant relation which featured a topping of melted marshmallows over some sort of a squash mélange. It made an indelible impression on me and re-surfaced just now as I was thinking about the versatility of Viognier. Bingo! Viognier would be the one and only perfect accompaniment for Aunt Marietta's marshmallow surprise, though I'm sorry to say she is no longer with us to prove the point. 

But moving on, culling through recent tastings of Northwest wines I've selected these as excellent go-to options for the upcoming holiday season. And remember, whether brined or boiled, roasted or grilled, smoked, sliced, diced, spatchcocked or im-Palined – it's just turkey. Drink whatever you damn well feel like!

Recommended Viogniers

Quady North 2020 Steel-Ox Viognier

This low-alcohol Viognier is vibrant with a lovely mix of green melon, apple, cilantro and lemon verbena. The botanicals highlight the fruit, and the balancing acids keep it fresh and lively. From a flavor standpoint it falls somewhere between an all-stainless Chardonnay and an un-grassy Sauvignon Blanc. However you define it, it's a delicious bottle with plenty of food-friendly flexibility.

277 cases; 12.6%; $25 (Applegate Valley)

Saviah 2021 Saviah Estate Vineyard Viognier

Picked at low brix and fermented in concrete egg, this is a high acid style that benefits from its lightness while avoiding fatness and bitterness. Savor the subtle elegance of the stone fruit, pineapple and citrus, highlighted with accents of white flowers. It pulls together with just the right lushness to the palate. It's clean, crisp, deep and detailed, and should age very well for up to a decade.

136 cases; 13.2%; $35  (Walla Walla)

TruthTeller 2021 Frolic Viognier

Fermented in all stainless, this blends Yakima Valley and Walla Walla Valley fruit, yielding a light, mineral-drenched, citrusy white wine that sings with electricity. Even for those who shy away from truly ripe, intense – let's say it – hot, alcoholic Viogniers, this has great appeal. It's racy, elegant, loaded with citrus rind, botanical highlights and refreshing acids. In short, it's a dream drink for summer and fall. This may or may not get better with age, but why wait?

183 cases; 13.5%; $25 (Columbia Valley)

Recommended Rhône-style Blends

DeLille 2020 Le Dessein Red

Formerly marketed as Métier, this GSM blend is a meaty, serious red with a lovely mix of meaty, savory and fruit-driven flavors. Blueberries, black cherries, cassis, strawberry leaf and a touch of mineral all combine and lead through a powerful finish. Boushey, Stone Tree and Ciel du Cheval vineyards contributed the fruit, with the overall blend beautifully handled.

1400 cases; 14.5%; $45 (Columbia Valley)

Kerloo 2019 The Ninja Red

This interesting wine is composed of 55% Red Willow vineyard Syrah and 45% Rockgarden vineyard Mourvèdre. It's an interesting take on the more common G-S-M blend; here missing the Grenache. What remains is more savory and acidic, less fruity, but structured and sturdy with plenty of back end power. The two vineyards, at opposite ends of the Columbia Valley, make an unusual though complementary pairing.

96 cases; 13.4%; $57 (Columbia Valley)

L'Ecole 2020 Seven Hills Vineyard GSM

The three grapes are equally distributed here, all grown in the estate's Seven Hills vineyard. It hits a potent 15% alcohol, yet feels just right, poised and balanced. The red and purple berries, black cherries and plums share the center ring with lightly toasty tannins, black olive highlights and a streak of espresso. This is on the strong, dark side of the GSM universe, with excellent penetration through the finish. Should cellar well for the rest of the decade.

275 cases; 15%; $41 (Walla Walla)

Quady North 2020 GSM

This is 39% Grenache and 32% Syrah and 29% Mourvèdre. I'll quote the back label because honestly I can't improve upon it. "A classic blend, it works because the bright fruit of Grenache is structured by the tannin from Syrah and offset by the game and herbal qualities of Mourvèdre." Wild berries, tart cherries, a touch of truffle and lingering tannins pull this all into a full and satisfying finish.

374 cases; 13.7%; $25 (Rogue Valley)

TruthTeller – The Miscreant Project 2020 GobSMack'd

The casual label reader might easily miss the layers of puns and jokester references scattered on the wine labels and throughout this winery's highly entertaining website. Here the name puts the letters GSM in caps, which tips off the blend:  47% Syrah, 27% Grenache and 27% Mourvèdre. Another sensational value from the Miscreant Project, this layered and textured wine mixes light red fruits, sandalwood, almond butter, smooth almost silky tannins and a finishing hint of buttered popcorn into a splendidly lovely and affordable bottle.

262 cases; 14.5%; $19 (Columbia Valley)

Recommended Quady North

For quality and value across a deep lineup of Rhône-style wines southern Oregon's Quady North leads the pack.

Quady North 2020 Bomba Grenache

Wow - this is sure to please those who love Grenache as much as I do. It's front-loaded with cherry and blackberry and marionberry fruit flavors and has just the right touch of phenolic highlights to frame and focus them. Light accents of pepper and herb finish up the tail. As with all the Quady North wines, this delivers exceptional flavor at value pricing.

207 cases; 14.1%; $25 (Rogue Valley)

Quady North 2019 4-2,A Syrah

If anyone is making a better under-$30 Syrah in the Northwest I haven't tasted it. This is the lowest-priced Syrah in Quady's excellent lineup, a sappy, snappy bowlful of fresh-squeezed black cherries. The accents of pipe tobacco, anise, orange peel and dark chocolate are lightly applied and well-integrated. This drinks just fine as soon as the cork is pulled, but the open bottle can be finished on the second day with equal pleasure.

1028 cases; 14.2%; $27 (Rogue Valley)

Quady North 2017 Steelhead Run Vineyard Syrah

This shows plenty of acidity with accompanying suggestions of green and yellow citrus. The tart berry fruit is lightly-ripened, like wild blackberries picked just ahead of a rain. There is a sturdy phenolic frame around the core, and a finish with medium concentration and length suggests drinking this over the next three or four years. Way better on the second day.

73 cases; 14.4%; $35 (Applegate Valley)

Quady North 2018 Mae’s Vineyard Syrah

This is lighter but more accessible than the reserve Flagship bottling from Mae's. It's an elegant wine that fully expresses varietal character. Cooked plum, berry, coffee, hints of citrus rind and layer after layer of delicate complexity are in play. There's more here than meets the palate, at least at first sip.

75 cases; 14.2%; $35  (Applegate Valley)

Quady North 2018 Mae’s Vineyard Flagship Syrah

The Flagship Syrah is held back for additional bottle age prior to release but this could benefit from more. The flavors mix brambly berries with juicy citrus; there's even a crisp hint of green apple. Let it breathe! I tasted the 2014 version of this wine just a couple of weeks ago and found it was right now drinking at a spectacular level. Six to ten years past vintage is often optimal for top-tier Syrahs. Drink this 2025 to 2030.

104 cases; 14.4%; $75 (Applegate Valley)

Other Recommended Syrahs

Dusted Valley 2020 Tall Tales Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah

The expanding number of Rocks District vineyards has been important for the development of the region's wines over the past decade. As these new vineyards mature, the wines get better, deeper and more detailed. This is not a big Syrah but it's solid through and through, with classic varietal flavors expanded by the typical Rocks District details of cured meat, soy, coffee and umami. Aged in neutral puncheons, it's a wine that gives you more enjoyment if you give it more attention.

180 cases; 14.2%; $62 (Walla Walla - Rocks District)

Saviah 2020 Syrah

Saviah has quietly accumulated a fine portfolio of estate vineyards scattered around the Walla Walla Valley, and many are part of this excellent blend. It's supremely drinkable, which is to say delicious despite its youth and balanced for immediate enjoyment. Plush with purple fruits, a streak of licorice, a sassy swatch of butterscotch and lifted with refreshing acids, this is one of those wines you won't be able to keep your hands off.

532 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla)

Saviah 2020 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah

This is a high-density site just recently planted so the best years are yet to come. All the right pieces are in place for a clear evocation of Rocks District Syrah, but the wine does not yet show the power of older vines. As with all the Saviah Syrahs, it's made in a classic style, perfectly balanced, detailed with dusty tannins, dried herbs and streaks of anise and espresso. Very fine winemaking and a peek at a vineyard that will certainly be a superstar in the near future.

311 cases; 14.4%; $60 (Walla Walla - Rocks District)

Saviah 2020 Reserve Syrah

The best wine in a stunning lineup, this is built from top tier estate fruit from the Funk Estate, Stones Speak and Watermill vineyards. It gets the new barrel treatment (40%) and carries the additional imprint of the Rocks District where the vineyards are located. Intense, detailed, compact and expressive, it's loaded with brambly berries, savory herbs, licorice, espresso, dark chocolate, ash and even touches of lemon rind. What a glorious bottle it is, one that should continue to develop beautifully over the rest of the decade.

410 cases; 14.3%; $50 (Walla Walla)

Time & Direction 2019 Old School Syrah

Co-fermented with 5% Viognier) this punches through with pepper and stem, espresso and chocolate, balsamic and plum, tobacco and vanilla. The classic Syrah components are all here in a young, tight and powerful wine. The 2018 version of this wine may still be available and shows the potential for development with a bit more bottle age. Among the upcoming fall releases this is my clear favorite, though it remains tightly wound and definitely in need of a good decanting.

100 cases; 14.7%; $40 (Royal Slope)

Tranche 2019 Blue Mountain Vineyard Syrah

Lush aromas mix a riot of purple and black fruits with a whiff of chicken yard funk. The flavors form a focused thread down the palate, with accents of iodine and ginger and violets. Aged in one third new puncheons for over two years, it's still a few years shy of optimal drinking, so aerate aggressively.

285 cases; 14.6%; $75 (Walla Walla)

The Walls 2018 River Rock Vineyard Mahana Syrah

This well-appointed Syrah has a tight, tough structure with a mix of herb, pine needle, bark and brambly berry flavors. The earthy, lightly funky umami character of The Rocks AVA is also evident though it's labeled (by law) simply as Walla Walla Valley. Fruit lovers – give this extra breathing time in order to pump up the blackberries.

14.9%; $56 (Walla Walla)

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NOTE:  The wines I recommend have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups and are selected for excellence. I have chosen to eliminate numerical scores from this website. Only recommended wines are shown, no negative reviews. My notes are posted immediately with links to the winery website, so you may purchase them directly from the producer before they are sold out. I take no commission, accept no advertising, and charge no fees for wines reviewed.

Coming next week:  Bubbles!

Please send current and upcoming releases when your schedule (and favorable weather) allows. All new releases from Pacific Northwest wineries are welcome and will be tasted. California wineries please inquire before sending wines. As always only recommended wines will be published on this website.

Please contact me at paulgwine@me.com with your feedback and suggestions for future posts. Thank you for your support! – Paul Gregutt