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Boom! This is the bomb. Notorious is designed as the top reserve from Patty Green, the only wine aged in 100% new French oak. It's sourced each year from a mix of sites – in this vintage a mix of estate fruit, Freedom Hill, Durant and another unnamed Dundee Hills site. The new oak has not been overdone, and remains an accent at this point, not a dominant scent or flavor. The palate strains to corral all that's going on here. Berries, bramble, savory herbs, lead pencil, coffee grounds, chicory, charcoal... well it's pretty much endless. This is a big wine, but in perfect proportion and balance from start to finish. 13.5%; $85; (Willamette Valley) 98/100

From an archetypal vineyard, first planted in 1976, this wine brings together blocks from both the original and later plantings. If you like the flavors of fresh, forward fruit (as I do) this is a good wine to know. Fragrant with floral notes, tasty red and black cherry fruit, this is a well-structured Pinot Noir with a savory underpinning. The balance and length are superb. A seam of licorice runs through the finish, which continues to add such unsuspected touches as chicken stock and dried Italian herbs. This continued to drink beautifully on day two and day three. 250 cases; 13.2%; $55 (Chehalem Mountains) 96/100. Purchase here.

Made consistently since 2017, the Shea bottling gets roughly one fifth new oak. As expected it's big, bold, dark and blocky, with plentiful blackberry and black cherry fruit. I love the texture and depth of this wine, which layers in subtle shades of clean earth, pipe tobacco, black olive, anise, coffee grounds and... well the deeper you dive, the more you find. 351 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

The long-awaited release of this vintage reserve marks an important milestone for the winery's ambitious sparkling wine program. Two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay, all estate-grown, spent over six years en tirage. Like vintage Champagne this puts a focus on purity of expression, here further amplified by the closely related vineyard sites. Still tasting quite youthful, this offers crisp apple, steely acids and a tightly wound core. Let it warm up a bit in the glass and it will expand to reveal a range of stone fruits, biscuit, meringue and lemon zest. 12%; $110 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

https://www.domaineserene.com/product/2014-Vintage-Brut-750ml

I continue to be dazzled by the Rhône-style wines from this new winery. This was blended from both estate vineyards – Double D and Clos Chevalle – one in the new Rocky Reach AVA and the other in the Lake Chelan AVA just north of the winery. The tight, steely fruit and baseline minerality give the wine precision, length and focus. The aromatics open up with aeration giving a solid expression of the variety, leading into a finely-woven web of brambly berry, espresso, rich earth, tobacco and toasted walnuts. This definitely can stand beside with Syrahs from the Rocks District and special sites such as Boushey representing the region's best. 210 cases; 14.9%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 95/100 (Purchase here)

Planted in 1968 and first bottled as a single block in 1975, these 10 rows of Pinot Noir are as special and iconic as any grapes in Oregon. This legendary bottling was for many vintages made and cellared but never released. This 2017 is a 'young' wine with almost unbounded aging potential. Elegant, subtle, complex, well-integrated components bring rhubarb, raspberry, pie cherry, tea, a touch of cumin and more flavors into play. After 24 hours baking spices and candied fruits emerge. By any measure this is a stunning achievement that can be enjoyed immediately (with decanting!) or cellared indefinitely. So often, expensive high end and rare wines are ripened to excessive levels, given massive amounts of new oak. and basically blown out. Here is a truly magical wine that has been given the vinification it deserves so it can show itself in all its unique glory. The track record of ageability speaks volumes. Drink now until.... 2050? 97 cases; 12.9%; $250 (Dundee Hills) 100/100

From a top vineyard in this Chardonnay-centric AVA, this exceptional all-Chardonnay bubbly deserves the center ring in the Corollary portfolio. I love the purity, the power and the precision of this wine. Fermented in neutral oak, left on the lees for six months, then re-fermented en tirage for three and a half years, this expressive wine is as close the Champagne as you can find in Oregon. Pay attention to the finish, which lingers and keeps adding nuances and details all the way through. 96 cases; 11.4%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

I'm struck by the depth and detailed layering of this special wine. It's being released to celebrate the vineyard's first half century. The aromas are a sensual drift of rose petals, pastry, chocolate, candied orange peel and truffle, with flavors following and compounding. The mouthfeel is warm and smooth, the flavors accessible and abundant, the finish long and lingering. Almond paste and butter brickle notes come up, and the wine never flags nor founders. This very limited wine includes the original 1972 Coury clone fruit. It is a marvelous tribute to a special site and spectacular history. 50 cases; 13.8%; $95 (McMinnville) 96/100

NOTE: The winery informs me that this wine will be released to high level club members next week; then opened up to everyone else until it's gone.

The Funk vineyard (owned by Saviah's Rich Funk) captures the essence of Oregon's Rocks District AVA in a more elegant style than some of the more notorious sites. I can't say enough about how good this wine is. Pure Syrah, loaded with ripe black berries, powdery tannins, dusty spices and highlight scents of lavender and violets, it's the sort of wine that just demands attention and brings a smile. Big, bold and beautiful, it should drink nicely over the next decade. 14.5%; $74 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100 Purchase here.

A textbook Walla Walla Merlot, this is both satin smooth and flecked with savory highlights. Sourced just about 50/50 from the winery's Ferguson and Seven Hills vineyards set in the slopes of the Blue Mountains above the Rocks District AVA, this Merlot is blended with 14% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's richly scented, structured and detailed with stacked black fruits, coffee grounds, baker's chocolate and green tobacco. Tasted over three days, it not only held together well, it actually smoothed out, melded beautifully, and suggested that the optimal drinking window will be 2025 to 2035. 1000 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

https://www.lecole.com/product/2020-merlot-estate-ferguson-seven-hills-vineyards-walla-walla-valley/

This Estate Selection shows that Sauvignon Blanc is another strength (albeit rarely found) of the Umpqua Valley wine region. This is a bracing, refreshing young wine, with a mix of lime and other citrus, green melon and lightly grassy flavors. There's a mineral note that resonates across the palate, and the liveliness of the wine is especially engaging. This would be an excellent companion to goat cheese, oysters and white fish. 327 cases; 13.5%; $32 (Umpqua Valley) 92/100

https://www.secureclubwa.net/ReustleVineyards/scenario.aspx

Winemaker Kelsey Itämeri makes an interesting pair of Sémillons, this one fermented and aged in stainless, the other in neutral wood. Both wines are 100% varietal from the same block at Les Collines. The '1 of 2' is effusively juicy and fruity with luscious lime and pineapple. That opening burst of flavor is framed with a refreshing mineral note, and the nicely balanced phenolics add further details to the finish. Sémillon remains a bit of a rarity in Walla Walla (and throughout the Northwest) and it's a real pleasure to taste one so fresh and delicious as this. 146 cases; 13.6%; $28 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Dion's vines are among the oldest in the region, so this designation carries some weight. Here they deliver the sort of profound yet delicate flavors that make these wines so special. Subtle layers combine mountain berries, citrus, hints of tropical fruits, juicy acids and more. The length is sensational. 14%; $65 (Laurelwood District) 95/100

This pure Cabernet, set against the winery's J|R|G Red, which is 97% Cab, seems bigger, chewier, more tannic and focused, though not necessarily better. Both wines are fine expressions of classic Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, here sourced from Klipsun, Discovery and Scooteney Flats vineyards. The 55% Klipsun fruit accounts for the firm, dark, pencil lead tannins, which are perfectly ripened and polished to a fine luster. Winemaker Robert Henry has made a poised, balanced wine with impressive, yet restrained, power. This bottle sings out for dry-aged beef and a hearty appetite. Note:  the website still lists the 2018 - also good. 289 cases; 14.2%; $55 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

https://www.pamplinfamilywinery.com/2018-cabernet-sauvignon/

Much as I admire Walter Scott’s single vineyard selections, this Cuvée Anne – a barrel selection from several sites including Justice, Koosah, Seven Springs, Sojeau and X Novo – speaks to the power of a good blend. The winery believes that this best represents their vision of Willamette Valley Chardonnay as expressed through the lens of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. This is a rich, aromatic and lightly savory wine, replete with flavors of mandarin orange, white peach, honeysuckle and crisp apple. Fermented and aged in 40% new oak, then finished in stainless steel. 625 cases; 13%; $50 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Purchase this wine here.

This is the least expensive Freedom Hill offering, a mix of Wadensvil, Pommard and Coury clone fruit from younger vines. Compared with all the other Freedom Hill wines reviewed here this shows less focused specificity but the reward for the taster is that it piles on the flavors. Dark fruits, coffee and spice add up to a big, flavorful wine that is, quite honestly, a steal.

Purchase here

Part of the Long Shadows lineup, this popular rosé comes in a distinctive bowling pin-shaped bottle. Pinot Gris when left awhile on the skins imparts a natural blush color, which is unusual for a white wine grape. This is all you could wish for in a springtime sipper – it's fruity, forward, crisp, clean and lovely to look at. 6945 cases; 13.4%; $18-$20 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

https://longshadows.com/wines/2022-julias-dazzle/133

The biodynamic farming brings extra texture and some flavors of wild yeasts into the mix. This is not your standard cookie-cutter, ultra-safe and oaky Chardonnay. It's a let-it-all-hang-loose approach becoming more and more characteristic of Oregon. Lemon yellow, this mixes aromatic floral, tangy citrus, white peach and herbal tea flavors in well-balanced proportions. It's long lasting and further develops its Meyer lemon fruit with a hint of honeycomb as it gently fades. Tasted on day two it was as good as ever. 175 cases; 13.1%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

https://www.whitewalnutestate.com/procure

The High Canyon Series from Liminal is dedicated to the original vines that climbed Red Mountain to previously unplanted heights. The tension, detail and potency of these wines is beyond compare. This is Syrah with the precision and density of the finest Rhônes, yet with a particularity to the fruit and minerality that comes from this special site. Power, focus and density characterize this vineyard, here with extra concentration and length. I generally avoid comparisons to specific French wines because Washington is not France! But in many respects this is every bit as good as the best of Côte Rôtie, without duplicating it. This is a wine I could happily sip and savor for days. 122 cases; 15.1%; $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100

https://liminalwine.com/products/2020-high-canyon-syrah