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For the first time the true identity of the Mysterious bottling has been disclosed (with full permission) – the Arcus vineyard. Classic Dundee Hills flavors of blackberry and black cherry fruit are accented with iron-rich highlights and threads of Asian spices, candied citrus, coffee grounds and pencil lead. In short, a densely layered, textural and detailed wine with decades of life ahead.13.5%; $100 (Dundee Hills) 96/100

Though sourced from the same biodynamic estate vineyard, this Pinot Gris is beautifully differentiated from its companion Pinot Blanc. This is not always the case in book-matched estate wines. Native yeast fermentation in stainless steel captures the steely freshness, leesy texture and crisp citrus skin flavors, with lemon, lime and grapefruit in equal proportions. As it warms in the glass the wine fleshes out, adding satsuma orange and hints of lightly bitter botanicals. Generous and palate cleansing, this may be enjoyed immediately, or cellared for another decade. 1288 cases; 12.3%; $18 (McMinnville) 93/100. Purchase here.

Each wine in this series spotlights a specific sub-AVA within the Willamette Valley; most are also sourced from a single vineyard, in this case Hollis, a high elevation site with ancient volcanic soils. Sturdy fruit flavors blend marionberry, blackberry and black cherry with lightly chewy tannins and a dusting of coffee grounds. It nicely keeps its darker elements in proportion with firm, ripe tannins and a mineral foundation. This feels like a wine with decades of life ahead. Drink now to... 2040? 465 cases; 13.6%; $65 (Chehalem Mountains) 94/100

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This is the second edition of the Brut X (noted as such on the back label), Half is from the 2018 vintage, half is reserve wine; 60% is Pinot Noir, 40% is Chardonnay, sourced from estate vineyards. This is sleek, steely, subtle and subterranean, in the sense of layer upon layer somewhat hidden at first. Compact fruit, a fine bead, a touch of brioche and more awaits discovery. One way to unpack a young sparkling wine such as this is to let it warm up in the glass, and watch it open and change. With a couple of hours of breathing time, this did indeed open gloriously. 339 cases; 12.8%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 95/10

https://purchase.sotervineyards.com/product/Soter-Vineyards-Estates-Brut-X

Sourced from the Deux Vert vineyard, this Syrah was co-fermented with a healthy (10%) percentage of Viognier. Northern Willamette Syrahs are quite apart from the Rogue Valley or Rocks District Syrahs that book-end Oregon. Tightly compressed, this is packed with flavors of mountain berries and pie cherries. At first restrained, it opens with ample breathing into a well built, balanced and detailed wine. The savory palate avoids the overt funkiness of Syrahs from the Rocks District. I'd suspect that this will drink at its best toward the end of this decade. 13.4%; $44 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100 (Purchase here)

From the original site farmed at Eyrie (since replanted), this honors the past while showcasing the present. Along with 'The Eyrie' bottlings of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, they form a trio that represents the summation of the decades of work put in by the Lett family. I don't know if any original vines contributed to this blend, but in any event they are quickly vanishing due to ongoing phylloxera. Nonetheless, it's classic Eyrie – subtle, elegant, a bit disarming, with light red fruits, tea leaf tannins, a long, gliding finish, and decades of life ahead. 13%; $85 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Effusive bubbles, a tawny gold color, splendid fruit and the mouthfeel of fine Champagne – this single vineyard release from Adelsheim has it all. A roughly equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from this high elevation estate vineyard, there's a succulent texture, and overall the balance is spot-on. This is one of the handful of méthode champenoise wines from the Willamette Valley that truly evoke the French style. 376 6-pak cases; 12%; $75 (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

Just released, this elegant, lightly savory, estate-grown wine is a lovely expression of the grape. Brambly raspberry and pie cherry fruit is accented with barrel notes of sandalwood. The supple tannins add a touch of breakfast tea. Already in perfect proportion, this wine should age gracefully for decades. 400 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

The seductive aromatics and mouthfeel struck me as showing a textural lushness akin to the renowned Rutherford dust. The palate is fleshy and dense, with compact layers of earth, punchy pyrazines, black tea, cedar, cassis, black cherry and peppery tannins. Sourced from a 1998 planting the blend includes 19% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's delicious already, and it should age beautifully for the next 20 years. 14.5%; $74 (Red Mountain) 94/100 Purchase here.

Often with dinner I pull an older bottle or two from my cellar, not only for enjoyment, but also to check on the development of certain wines from specific vintages. This wine, first tasted six years ago, has developed into a jaw-droppingly great Pinot Noir. From the instant the cork was pulled the aromatics enveloped and enchanted. The color too was a perfect example of nicely-aged Pinot Noir, not too dark, a lush sunset hue. The flavors cascaded endlessly through a panoply of citrus and stone fruits, berries and pastry fillings. It was a wine that we carefully nurtured and savored throughout a long late spring twilight, and down to the last drop it was thrilling. Both from the cellar and still quite worthy of more time in the cellar, if you are fortunate enough to have any BTF Pinots from this vintage, now would be a great time to check in. 402 cases; 13.3%; $48 (original price) (Eola-Amity Hills) 96/100

Intensely aromatic, dark to the point of blackness, this is as potent as any Malbec I've ever had from this hemisphere (hello Argentina!). Concentrated flavors bring a concert of purple fruits, smoky tannins, clean earth, tobacco and espresso. Still young (2018 is the current vintage) it offers a lot of palate bang for the wallet bucks. Decant, aerate or cellar another half decade or longer. 236 cases; 14.1%; $46 (Umpqua Valley) 94/100

https://www.abacela.com/product/Malbec-Reserve-2018

This is loaded with blueberries, blackberries and currant fruit, underscored with tangy citrus. There are lighter veins of espresso, toasted walnuts and clean earth, with tongue-scraping acids. The overall balance is on point despite the very recent bottling, and the compact flavors suggest that there will be a further evolution over the next decade or longer. 3435 cases; 13.5%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

The majority of the Syncline portfolio is focused on single site, single varietal wines. The Subduction Red is the exception – a judicious blend of 45% Mourvèdre, 30% Syrah, 14% Grenache, 9% Carignan and 2% Cinsault. A salute to Côtes du Rhône style blends, here it is given a northern Rhône sensibility, with more earthy, herbal, stem and skin flavors. It's wild and gamey, intense and compelling, with a wild presence that grabs you by the throat and doesn't let go. 1575 cases; 13.6%; $30 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

From a 1998 planting, this is aromatically captivating, spicy, with highlights of clean earth, graphite and black cherry fruit. Impressively dense with a slightly chalky mouthfeel, the accent components of bark and earth are perfectly proportioned. The overall focus, depth and detail are very impressive. Note that these long-awaited PGC 2021 Pinots are selling out quickly so get ‘em while you can. 13.8%; $48 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

https://www.patriciagreencellars.com/product/2021-Freedom-Hill-Vineyard--Wadensvil-Clone-Pinot-Noir

In some respects this is the iconic vineyard for Walter Scott, and it anchors all that is valuable and authentic about the winery's AVA and vineyard-focused Chardonnays. It's supple and steely, tight and tart, focused and long. The tree fruits and citrus components provide a firm, full-bodied core. The finish brings hints of seashell and iron filings, and lingers languidly as long as you care to follow. This may have a 20-year life ahead. 13%; $?? (Eola-Amity Hills) 96/100

This wine is not yet listed on the website for purchase.

From vines a quarter century old, this young Pinot perfectly expresses the glorious diversity of biodynamic wines. Wild, feral, gamey, unruly flavors compound across the palate, keeping you riveted through the lingering finish. Peppery red berry fruits, juicy acids and underlying wet stone flavors balance it out. Give it plenty of aeration and/or decanting for maximum enjoyment. 13%; $68 (Ribbon Ridge) 93/100

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A field blend of Syrah, Malbec and Viognier grown at Moody vineyards in the Columbia Gorge, this is a highlight from the portfolio of Erich Berg. Barrel fermented, this is revelatory, capturing lovely floral and citrus aromatics that lead into a lushly-textured and lively palate. Details of citrus, orange liqueur and earthy strawberries come out, but this is not a heavy or tiring wine in any way. Its flavors extend and develop much as an older rosé might, so the prospect for additional complexity is tantalizing. But right now it's hard to resist. 300 cases; 13%; $25 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100

https://vinoshipper.com/shop/ricochet/confluence_rose_107480

This was co-fermented with 2% Viognier in a traditional Rhône style – 22% whole cluster, concrete fermenters, native yeast. Mixed clones add texture and detail, the purity of the varietal fruit is clear and the tight focus lingers all through the finish. In short it's classic, textbook Red Mountain Syrah at the highest level. Black fruits are adorned with notes of black pepper, violets and sage. Somehow, despite its youth and power, the wine carries a sense of restraint, muscular, balanced and built to age. 520 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/wines/estate/

This Right Bank Bordeaux-style blend is 88% Boushey vineyard Merlot with Champoux Cabernet Franc filling out the rest. Two thirds was fermented in concrete; the finished wine was aged 21 months in 28% new French oak. This is A++ material for such a mid-priced Washington red which will keep pace with the state's finest Merlots at any price. The time in concrete seems to soften it up a bit and add a touch of minerality, while the new oak aging puts a lightly toasty frame around the cassis and chocolate core. 216 cases; 14.6%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

https://store.avennia.com/product/2020-Valery