It's a gift to consumers that old vine wines such as this from Hyland are priced within reach of many wine lovers. A lovely garnet shade, this is brightly flavored with cranberry, plum and cherry fruit. A subtle mineral note and a whiff of earth contribute depth and detail. The mouthfeel is textured and the finish long and clean. One quarter of the barrels were new, and aging was kept to just nine months prior to bottling, so the fruit and acid hold court while the barrels sing harmonies. Give this one some good decanting for maximum pleasure. Tasted over three full days it showed continued improvement. 4000 cases; 13.5%; $45 (McMinnville) 94/100

https://www.hylandestateswinery.com/product/2021-Old-Vine-Estate-Pinot-Noir

It's a funny wine law anomaly that allows Big Table Farm – located hundreds of miles west of the vineyard – to accurately label this with the correct AVA, yet Rich Funk, who owns the vineyard and whose winery is maybe five miles away, cannot use The Rocks District on his own wines. It's an impressive commitment from BTF's Brian Marcy to work with distant grapes from a variety that is not a natural for the Willamette Valley. This subtly captures the essence of the AVA, with medium ripe mixed berry fruits, a dash of the typical Rocks District 'funk' and a long finish with coffee, chocolate and caramel. It's a perfectly structured wine should age nicely over the next decade. 146 cases; 14.4%; $68 (The Rocks District)

https://bigtablewine.com/product?productid=7EE04D87-CD9C-43B8-B26B-0C7B8EC20F52

All three Passing Time Cabs are exceptional. What's most impressive about this Red Mountain Cabernet is the tannin management. These sites (Klipsun, Red Mountain Vineyard, Heart of the Hill) are known for aggressively tannic wines. It's a calling card – a marker – for the AVA's red grapes. Here the tannins been tamed just enough to keep the wine in balance and showcasing the heady mix of dark flavors (cassis, black cherry, licorice, a whiff of smoke and more). This is the one to put down for long term aging, but you may find it quite delicious already. 14.9%; $94 (Red Mountain)

https://www.passingtime.com/Wines/Red-Mountain

This wine carries a more specific AVA than the companion Apocrypha though the actual vineyard sources are not disclosed. Aromatic and penetrating, with luscious brambly red fruits, this deftly mixes those slightly candied fruit flavors with broader highlights of Dr. Pepper, hot cinnamon candy and lemon drops. Wow – a lot going on here. Give this one a good look over plenty of time. Still drinking well on day four! 260 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton)

https://holocene-wines.obtainwine.com/product/2021-holocene-memorialis

The subtle elegance of the three 2021 DDO releases profiled here puts an unmistakable winemaker fingerprint on all of them. Even after 35 years the impact of more than a century of Drouhin family winemaking skills honed in Burgundy can still be startling to see in Oregon. Brambly berries, slightly stiff acids, firm and just-ripe tannins, all with a minerally bottom note keep this young wine fascinating. Will it age well? Undoubtedly. The ability to make a wine that is immediately delicious and yet structured for the cellar is what elevates DDO and winemaker Véronique Drouhin to the very top. Not yet posted online but the 2021 Roserock bottling is up and is a very good option. 17170 cases; 14.1%; $48 (Dundee Hills)

Made from a selection of the best Syrah from this estate vineyard, this was fermented in concrete and aged in one quarter new French oak. There should be a photo of this wine in the dictionary under Rocks District Syrah – it's that specific and focused. Without going over the top, and maintaining impeccable balance, it captures the blue and black fruits, the earthy umami, the suggestions of bloody meat and herbal tea and all the things that make this AVA unique and iconic. Among the very limited releases from Pášxa this has the biggest production and should be at the top of your must-have list. 375 cases; 14.3%; $85 (Walla Walla – Rocks District)

There is a lovely floral top note here, along with generous varietal-specific flavors of purple berries, umami hints of dried seaweed, chamomile and espresso. It's lighter than some previous releases but nicely balanced through the finish. Strictly allocated. It's possible that a new vintage is just around the corner but this is still the current listing on the website. 250 cases; 13.9%, $40 (Applegate Valley)

https://troon-vineyard.obtainwine.com/product/2020-estate-syrah

This barrel selection includes grapes from Bois Joli and Keeler vineyards. At first it is sharp, almost severe, and drinks younger than its vintage. It's steely and tight, with close-wound, mineral-drenched flavors of lemon rind, lemongrass, apple skin and dried Italian herbs. If past is preview, I expected this to respond well to aeration and further bottle age. Sure enough this opened up beautifully and drank far better on day three than on day one. Few if any reviewers would have given it that opportunity. 200 cases; 13%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills)

https://authentiquewinecellars.com/product/2019-fond-marin-chardonnay

This is 75% Cabernet, 20% Merlot and 5% Syrah, all from the flagship estate vineyard. Compare with the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon and the stats are almost identical, so this must be a reserve-level selection from all new barrels. With all that new oak it's loaded with baking spices, thus giving it immediate appeal despite its long term aging potential. The dark fruits are typical from the Double D vineyard, and line up taut and polished alongside sharp, ripe and balancing tannins. This is a beautifully made wine which should be cellared for at least a few more years and could easily go into the mid-2030s. Very limited. 90 cases; 15%; $120 (Columbia Valley)

https://rockypondwinery.orderport.net/product-details/0710/2020-Tumbled-Granite-Red

This is the first Blanc de Noirs from Soter and it's a beauty. A lovely straw hue, with tiny bead and effusive nose, this bottle commemorates the late Michelle Soter. Pure, elegant and expressive, it gathers itself in a concentrated palate replete with passion fruit, ginger, currant and raspberry, finishing with a creamy hint of chocolate. Tasted several times over many days, it held together and lost not a bit of complexity. Drink now and over the next 20 years. 160 cases; 12.8%; $100 (Yamhill-Carlton)

https://purchase.sotervineyards.com/product/2015-Mineral-Springs-Blanc-de-Noirs

This luscious Syrah was sourced from Kiona's Ranch at the End of the Road vineyard on Red Mountain. It entices immediately with a rich, fruity fragrance. Loaded with blackberries, black cherries and cassis, this stellar effort adds varietally-specific streaks of bacon fat, espresso and cigar tobacco. The balance and depth are impressive, and suggest that this will develop nicely over the next half decade. 193 cases; 14%; $45 (Red Mountain)

http://www.libertylakewinecellars.com/our-wines

The Nancy's reserve is principally Pommard clone and gets a bit more new oak – about one quarter new. For me that's all a big plus and this wine nicely mixes accessibility, mixed fruits, good structure and medium term ageability. Blood orange, cherry and chocolate flavors pop up immediately, with delicate herbal accents following through the finish. Drink now and through the rest of the decade. 655 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Dundee Hills)

https://shop.stollerwinegroup.com/product/SFE/2019-Legacy-Nancy-s-Pinot-Noir

Principally Red Mountain Cabernet, with a small addition of Petit Verdot, this firm, polished wine explodes with cassis, dark chocolate, tobacco and a streak of vanilla. It's close to the winery's J|R|G Red in substance and style, but more focused on a purer evocation of Red Mountain Cabernet. The tannins are full and fleshy, ripe and polished, with just a touch of grit. This outstanding red should be decanted for at least an hour before serving. Drink now and through the mid-2030s. 207 cases; 14.2%; $50 (Columbia Valley)

https://www.pamplinfamilywinery.com/2018-cabernet-sauvignon/

This highly limited reserve showcases fruit from the original 1973 Wadenswil vines. As is generally true with such old vines, alcohol levels are lowered and aromatic and flavor nuances are amplified. Threads of cinnamon, cumin, cola and caramel weave around a black cherry core. A bedrock minerality anchors the wine, which shows careful balance and perfect proportion. This is a truly special wine that expresses the very best aspects of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. 44 cases; 13%; $125 (Laurelwood District)

https://rubyvineyard.orderport.net/product-details/0321/2018-Floras-Reserve-Pinot-Noir

The Vireo reserve is 38% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. Aged 23 months in 70% new French oak, it's a silky, dark-fruited wine. It nicely showcases a Washington strong suit, which is the marrying of Syrah and Cabernet. Black fruits, black tea, tobacco, a hint of mint, espresso and more subtle highlights weave together seamlessly in this wine. Decant for drinking now; age up to a decade. 14.9%; $45 (Columbia Valley)

https://www.gooseridge.com/product/2018-Vireo

This is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with a half dozen other varieties filling out the remaining 30%. It's the best of a potent 2018 lineup from Kiona, and it is aimed at showing what is special and particular to Red Mountain reds. This complex wine marries ripe berry/cherry/cassis fruit with smooth tannins dusted with cocoa and coffee grounds. It's ready to go and may be enjoyed immediately; then re-visited over the next five to ten years. Not that it can't age longer, but that's a surefire drinking window.

709 cases; 15%; $65 (Red Mountain)

https://kionawine.com/retail

This top tier reserve blends five Bordeaux grapes. Vineyards unknown. This gets 50% new oak and 22 months in barrel, yet the toasty flavors are already integrating into brambly fruits. There's a tangy snap to the raspberry and black cherry flavors, backed with citrusy flavors of orange and lime. The tannins are proportionate and provide a good landing place as the wine winds down. This will need more cellar time to show its best. NOTE: the website still lists the previous vintage. 15%; $85 (Walla Walla)

https://www.sevenhillswinery.com/wines/pentad/

Winemaker Chris Fladwood and grower/owner Tony Soter have knocked it out of the park once again with this stunning vintage rosé. Pretty to look at, lovely to taste, it's bursting with strawberry and cherry highlights. Roughly four fifths Pinot Noir and one fifth Chardonnay, it was fermented in a mix of oak and (mostly) stainless and aged four years on the lees prior to disgorgement this past May. It's harmonious and inviting, with just the right touch of fruit in an elegant style.

1100 cases; 12.8%; $72 (Yamhill-Carlton)

https://purchase.sotervineyards.com/product/2018-Mineral-Springs-Brut-Rose

The Flagship Syrah is held back for additional bottle age prior to release but this could benefit from more. The flavors mix brambly berries with juicy citrus; there's even a crisp hint of green apple. Let it breathe! I tasted the 2014 version of this wine just a couple of weeks ago and found it was right now drinking at a spectacular level. Six to ten years past vintage is often optimal for top-tier Syrahs. Drink this 2025 to 2030.

104 cases; 14.4%; $75 (Applegate Valley)

https://quadynorth.orderport.net/product-details/0588/2018-Syrah-Flagship-750ml-144pct

Lovely to look at, this is close to Pinot Noir in color, and easily the best Washington state Nebbiolo I've ever tasted. Why? Because it captures the complex elegance of the grape, offering scents of roses amidst delicate layers of wild berries matched to firm, earthy tannins. The length is impressive, the extended finish trails out with touches of tobacco, licorice and tar, and the overall structure suggests that this is a wine to cellar for a decade or longer. Very limited to jump on it now.

91 cases; 14.3%; $38 (Walla Walla)

https://www.saviahcellars.com/wine/classic/2019-nebbiolo/